The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

[sage909]

So I just bought this 35mm film camera, not too sure on how to use it but its a good little investment. Spent only $15 at the antique shop. I have some reading to do on this. Anyone mind giving me a few tips ? Greatly appreciated.

 

[la08native]

sup fam. don't mind me, just passin thru

 

[chief rocka]

Ok, so I've been using a 35mm SLR (Nikon N90s) for about a year now strictly with black and white film and on full Manuel mode to learn ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. I'm looking into going digital now, but have no clue where to begin. I do prefer Nikon over other brands, but their full frame DSLR's are so expensive, especially for my budget. I know most DSLR's are 24mm, but what is the major difference between 35mm and 24mm cameras? Also, those of you who have both full-frame and 24mm DSLR's, what do you prefer?

 

[la08native]

Ok, so I've been using a 35mm SLR (Nikon N90s) for about a year now strictly with black and white film and on full Manuel mode to learn ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. I'm looking into going digital now, but have no clue where to begin. I do prefer Nikon over other brands, but their full frame DSLR's are so expensive, especially for my budget. I know most DSLR's are 24mm, but what is the major difference between 35mm and 24mm cameras? Also, those of you who have both full-frame and 24mm DSLR's, what do you prefer?

24mm camera?

Do you mean a "cropped body?"

 

[Fong$tarr]

Ok, so I've been using a 35mm SLR (Nikon N90s) for about a year now strictly with black and white film and on full Manuel mode to learn ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. I'm looking into going digital now, but have no clue where to begin. I do prefer Nikon over other brands, but their full frame DSLR's are so expensive, especially for my budget. I know most DSLR's are 24mm, but what is the major difference between 35mm and 24mm cameras? Also, those of you who have both full-frame and 24mm DSLR's, what do you prefer?

Best bang for your buck imo is get a Nikon D7000 and a 35mm 1.8G. Probably the best setup for the budget if you can afford it. Do not get a D5000 or then entry level DLSRs they carry. Either get the D7000 or the Canon Rebel T3i.

 

[chief rocka]

24mm camera?

Do you mean a "cropped body?"

It's the size of the sensor; kind of like the measurement of tv's, but for cameras. Like for example, the Canon Rebel T3i has a sensor size of 24mm and the Nikon D600 has a sensor size of 35mm. I'm trying to figure out the major differences between these two sizes and what they can produce.

Best bang for your buck imo is get a Nikon D7000 and a 35mm 1.8G. Probably the best setup for the budget if you can afford it. Do not get a D5000 or then entry level DLSRs they carry. Either get the D7000 or the Canon Rebel T3i.

Thanks Fongstarr, I'll definitely look into that.

 

[yanky]

Since there's a lot of pictures of the civic centerl lol.


DSC_0359-1 by Yanky4585, on Flickr

 

[thewinners]

Just got my "photo studio in a box". im trying to get into product photography heres my shots from today

My Setup:

Results:

 

[la08native]

They seem a little too cool, technically speaking.

What white balance did you use?
 

Hope you don't mind... here is it after I went into Photoshop with it.

Did you add the vignette, or was that how it came out of the camera?

 

[bigrockford]

^^I agree LA08NATIVE. He needs to put his WB on Auto. If it is on Auto he needs to reset it with a grey card. Your shutter speed and ISO have nothing to do with a blue tint on your pictures.

 

[ksteezy]

^^I agree LA08NATIVE. He needs to put his WB on Auto. If it is on Auto he needs to reset it with a grey card. Your shutter speed and ISO have nothing to do with a blue tint on your pictures.

It has everything to do with ambient light specially when dealing with a flash....with those light box shots a WB adjustment is what was needed, like LA did in PS...for the club shots, In camera WB is not something is worry about since it can be fixed in PP, hell I never worry about WB period because it can always be adjusted after...I can almost bet the tint and laser lights in those club shots are due to the long exposure and high ISO absorbing more ambient light than he wanted.

 

[bigrockford]

It has everything to do with ambient light specially when dealing with a flash....with those light box shots a WB adjustment is what was needed, like LA did in PS...for the club shots, In camera WB is not something is worry about since it can be fixed in PP, hell I never worry about WB period because it can always be adjusted after...I can almost bet the tint and laser lights in those club shots are due to the long exposure and high ISO absorbing more ambient light than he wanted.

OK so you see the man took pictures on two separate occasions, and both sets of his pictures have a blue tint. Your saying its because of the available light, long exposure, and high ISO? OK, Im wrong.

 

[ksteezy]

OK so you see the man took pictures on two separate occasions, and both sets of his pictures have a blue tint. Your saying its because of the available light, long exposure, and high ISO? OK, Im wrong.

The tint is due to ambient light bro...there are blue/red laser lights in one and it appears the room where the girl is, is lit with some blue lights.

When you shoot indoors and want to absorb ambient background light so that your picture doesn't end up looking like just a subject in a dark room you play around with ISO/shutter/aperture, NOT WB....WB won't affect the amount of light your sensor takes in fam.

 

[ksteezy]

here is some tips that can help you guys shooting in a club.

ISO
Iso as we have covered is your main control for the ambient light levels, so that is pretty self explanatory. I’m not too worried about pushing this too high because as long as your overall exposure is correct, you aren’t going to see any noticeable noise as you are only going to be supplying small images.
Should the club want you to supply some specific shots for large posters etc you may want to drop the iso and think about what to do to compensate, but that’s not worth worrying about now.


Shutter speed
Shutter speed I tend to keep quite slow anywhere outside of the dance floor where its darker, this again lets you pull in some more ambient light.
When you move onto the dance floor where there is often a lot more lighting, you may find you want to increase the shutter speed a touch, especially if strobes are going off.
You can also play with much longer shutter speed, up to say a couple of second and do something with light trails, twisting the camera, zoom bursts etc.
Fast shutter. It’s crisp, clear and no hint of motion blur or camera shake.

Long shutter. Lots of funky goings on with the lights. But you can easily start suffering with undesired blur of the subject, light bleed and things generally just get less predictable.

Aperture
Aperture I keep to a minimum of f4. I don’t go any lower as the dof is too shallow. I’ll keep this for 1-2 people, and increase it as the number of people, and thus depth of the subject, increases.
For larger groups you will also want to think about upping your flash power.
Larger aperture. The dof is too shallow, you can see the barmaid at the back is not quite in focus.

Smaller aperture. You can see there is a difference in depth between the guy at the front and the one at the back, but all are in good focus.

Just remember, as you change one setting, something else will need to change to counteract it and keep the overall exposure consistent. Ie, if you increase your aperture for a crowd shot, you may want to use a longer shutter speed to compensate.

read up more on

http://davidwalkerphotographyblog.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/a-guide-to-nightclub-photography/


ONCE AGAIN WB IS IRRELEVANT IN A CLUB SETTING, SINCE LIGHT REFLECTING INTO YOUR SENSOR MORE THAN OFTEN IS SO INCONSISTENT, YOU ARE GOING TO DRIVE YOURSELF NUTS TRYING TO ADJUST FOR EVERY SHOT....JUST LEAVE IT IN AUTO....TELLING SOMEONE TO BRING A GREY CARD FOR WB ADJUSTMENT TO A NIGHT CLUB IS PROBABLY THE FUNNIEST THING IVE READ

 

[la08native]

Good looking Steez!
 

 

[bigrockford]

Just remember, as you change one setting, something else will need to change to counteract it and keep the overall exposure consistent. Ie, if you increase your aperture for a crowd shot, you may want to use a longer shutter speed to compensate.

read up more on

http://davidwalkerphotographyblog.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/a-guide-to-nightclub-photography/


ONCE AGAIN WB IS IRRELEVANT IN A CLUB SETTING, SINCE LIGHT REFLECTING INTO YOUR SENSOR MORE THAN OFTEN IS SO INCONSISTENT, YOU ARE GOING TO DRIVE YOURSELF NUTS TRYING TO ADJUST FOR EVERY SHOT....JUST LEAVE IT IN AUTO....TELLING SOMEONE TO BRING A GREY CARD FOR WB ADJUSTMENT TO A NIGHT CLUB IS PROBABLY THE FUNNIEST THING IVE READ

You really believe yourself huh? OK, your right, Im wrong..

I never said take the grey card to the club to reset his WB. Know what I think is funny? You posting a link to a bunch of someone else's info. And I shoot at the club every weekend.

TheWinners when you figure out what it is, please share.

 

[ksteezy]

You really believe yourself huh? OK, your right, Im wrong..

I never said take the grey card to the club to reset his WB. Know what I think is funny? You posting a link to a bunch of someone else's info. And I shoot at the club every weekend.

TheWinners when you figure out what it is, please share.

Bro why are you getting so defensive?...yes I used someone else's write up and pictures and linked his site for reference, since is pretty much the same thing I've been trying to explain to you since last page but perhaps my word is not enough, so there you have it, an actual club photographer illustrating what's common sense to anyone that has been shooting for a while.

You shoot at the club every weekend huh?

I've shot at clubs many times, mostly when I first got started, unfortunately that gig doesn't pay much so I stopped....now I do weddings and other parties and I have a pretty clear understanding on how to handle ambient light ad it has absolutely NOTHING to do with WB...so YES YOU ARE WRONG.

Have no clue what TheWinners are...

 

[hizzle]

Some photos I've taken in my hometown of Baltimore. None of these have been edited in any type of way. The last photo is a long exposure. More on my site.

Edit: I said none of these have been edited, but obviously the first photo has been flipped.

 

[MrCJGrider]

Everyone is backordered for that Nikon 50mm f/1.8G lens... I got the D600 with the 24-85mm kit lens. I need a prime lens! Hopefully, Adorama gets theirs in soon. Anyone looking for a D7000?

 

[yanky]

Are there any members on here from outside the US that shoot? Pics of Greece, Rome, Italy, Paris are

 

[MrCJGrider]

Are there any members on here from outside the US that shoot? Pics of Greece, Rome, Italy, Paris are

I'm stationed in Germany man... I should be heading to Italy in the next couple of weeks for the birth of my daughter.

 

[twosickjays]

I have a pretty clear understanding on how to handle ambient light ad it has absolutely NOTHING to do with WB...so YES YOU ARE WRONG.

I'm not sure who told you that or how you learned that, but to have a proper exposure most photographers strive to match ambient and fill lighting. Saying ambient lighting has nothing to do with WB is first for me.

"For instance, if you were in a fluorescent room, you might balance on the "FL" white balance to make ambient light photos. Since FL lights are in fact green (mostly, but pretty variable these days) your camera would compensate by shifting the color balance about 30CC units of magenta. (That's the complimentary color of green.

So if you used flash in that environment, and was "mixing" the balance with the ambient, your flash would appear … too magenta. Your camera is balanced for FL, and there is a daylight-colored light source. Your flash. So that light would react to the color shift in a not great way."

read more here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-using-gels-to-correct.html

ISO 1600 F/2.8 1/10TH (EDIT)

The reason why everyone, including myself, said this may be a white balance issue is because the foreground which is illuminated by the fill(flash) is tinted blue, while the rest of the photo background and ambient light seems to be balanced right. There is a possibility that the camera could have picked up some type of blue club lighting, but then it would come down to the strobe itself not being powerful enough to illuminate the subjects or the strobe is not set to TTL.

]

Here is a photo I took almost 5 years ago. ISO 800 F2.8 1/5TH yet the subject is still balanced properly and the purple ambient is not over taking the photograph.

Sorry for the wall of text. hah

 

[DVMNXK]

Amalfi, Italy in Spring 2012
Shot with a 5D MK II & 50mm f/1.4

It was a bit overcast that day but I always liked this pic. This place is much more beautiful during summer.

 

[ksteezy]

the thing about WB is that is an issue that can easily be corrected in PP, so i dont know what type of old school photographer you are that WB becomes so crucial, you can set your WB on auto and easily fix whatever tones you picked up later on.

WB DOES NOT AFFECT THE AMOUNT OF AMBIENT LIGHT ABSORBED....only aperture, shutterspeed and ISO do, you can play around with WB but this would just affect the way your camera interprets the tones....once again trying to manually set your WB for each photo in a club with a different mood lights, laser beams and in a very dark environment is pointless, just shoot in auto and if you must correct something, do it in PP.

those 2 shots are a result of high ISO and slow shutter, period....if he wants different results he just has to play around with those settings....the blue tint on the subjects is probably due to the light source facing them, as you can see the laser beams on their faces.... @iso1600 and 1/10th of a sec shutter speed, dude is picking up all the ambient light thats bleeding on to the subject.

i googled for you guys.

"can white balance affect my nightclub photography"

here is what i got back in some photographers blog....since i dont know what im talking about

Never mind your white balance
As lights are gonna be all over the place with different colors, I suggest you just leave your white balance set to auto mode. No matter how you custom-set your white balance, in a minute the lighting will change so you might as well leave it on auto and let the camera make the best guess for you (unless you’re in a consistently lit environment, in which case you can set your white balance as you please).

read more
http://www.thedphoto.com/photograph...raphy-tips-for-the-modestly-equipped-shooter/

 

[twosickjays]

Welp looks like we just posted two completely contradictory links. haha. I will go with what strobist said lol.