\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //
Thierry Henry
formerly louislagerfeld
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I'm shaking my head at both points you just made. I remember you were the one who told me not to buy the TSX I posted last year, but I'm hardheaded and didn't listen.I don't get what you're saying here.So posted a while back how Iwantedneeded to get my whole car repainted. I went to get some quotes from 2 different body shops and they're giving me a quote of $1,600-$1,800
Are you shaking your head because you think $1600 is too expensive for a paint job? Because that's actually a really cheap price, just materials for a paint job is going to run you $600+ easy, probably more, depending on the quality that is being used. Then factor in labor, which at most shops the rate is at least $60 an hour (much more for good shops), and you can see how things add up quick. If you're just dropping off the car as is, you gotta factor in that the shop will have to do a lot of masking (because they aren't gonna be pulling the car apart, the correct way to do a paint job, if you're only paying 1600), sanding, fixing whatever little dings and dents you have, and then time to actually spray the car, unmask, and then hopefully buff the paint. If you're changing colors and getting the door jambs done, thats also a LOT more work to do. You get what you pay for when it comes to paint jobs!
Or, if you're just shaking your head at BEING in this situation, then I get that laying out that kinda money sucks, and you can disregard everything above. Except for the point that you get what you pay for when it comes to paint!
The car looks discolored in some places and the brutal South Florida sun has ate through the clear coat and paint on the roof and the hood. Plus add to the fact that I still haven't gotten it fixed after the accident I had last year. I had to buy a new bumper since one of the sides has broken tabs which don't fit into the brackets anymore. There's also a small dent in the driver's side fender and a huge dent on the front of the hood. The hood has to get re-aligned as well since it does not line up with the fender. They also have to install the plastic cover under the engine and the inner fender liners too.
how do I know it's good paint? I'm just getting it repainted the same color it left the factory.
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Its not the color, its the paint used and if they actually take the doors off, quality of the actual paint job, etc.
$1600 is a bargain. A good point job will run you easily $3-4 grand.
$1600 is a bargain. A good point job will run you easily $3-4 grand.
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Make sure they put more than one coat of paint on there.
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Loved the 1 series, but I'm a fan of small cars.
Wish they kept it
bigboss
Banned
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Man I was just posting some other cars so people don't get butt hurt and ask me why the M doesnt run a 4 second 1/4 mile so therefore it sucks
bigboss
Banned
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Just go to Maaco. They will hook it up, we use them all the time.
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About how much?
bigboss
Banned
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$300-$500 sounds about right.
I think they have more (better) options that cost more.
I was being kind of sarcastic though lol I wouldn't take a nice car there personally. The ones we are getting painted are all worth less than $5k.
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I'm shaking my head at both points you just made. I remember you were the one who told me not to buy the TSX I posted last year, but I'm hardheaded and didn't listen.
The car looks discolored in some places and the brutal South Florida sun has ate through the clear coat and paint on the roof and the hood. Plus add to the fact that I still haven't gotten it fixed after the accident I had last year. I had to buy a new bumper since one of the sides has broken tabs which don't fit into the brackets anymore. There's also a small dent in the driver's side fender and a huge dent on the front of the hood. The hood has to get re-aligned as well since it does not line up with the fender. They also have to install the plastic cover under the engine and the inner fender liners too.
how do I know it's good paint? I'm just getting it repainted the same color it left the factory.
Yea I think I remember the TSX now, it was black with tan guts right?Man, with all the damage you're describing, that $1600 estimate is sounding like a STEAL. I'd ask the body shops what exactly they're going to do. I'd be asking questions like:
-Will they be removing the dents, and only using a minimal amount of filler? Or are they gonna do a half *** job popping them out, and then fill what is remaining with bondo.
- What paint brand do they use?
- How many hours of body work is that $1600 paying for? How much money in materials are you paying for?
Are you handy with tools and working on cars at all? You can save yourself some money, and get a better paint job, if you can remove things like door handles, mirrors, etc, ahead of time, instead of paying the shop to take them off and re-install them, or paying them to mask them (in your case, I'd be willing to bet they won't be removing ANYTHING for $1600, and will instead just be taping off things they don't want paint on).
Like I said, you get what you pay for. What is your plan with the car? Are you gonna keep it for a while (several years)? Or will you be selling it soonish? Because honestly, if you're not going to keep the car for too much longer, then I'd just bite the bullet, get the cheapest paint job you can find from somewhere that is somewhat reputable, and dump the car down the road soon after. To the average joe, even a very cheap Maaco paint job is going to look fine. And even a cheap paint job should hold up, and look decent, for at least a little while. Only a professional is really going to notice minor paint issues like orange peel or fisheyes, minor overspray in places it shouldn't be on the car, etc.
From personal experience, that slammed white 1987 Monte Carlo that I posted a page or 2 back had a cheap paint job. The previous owner had it painted cheaply (I think it only cost him around 2 grand). When I bought the car, it looked great! However, about 4 or 5 months into me owning it, a 2-3 inch crack in the paint showed up on the left rear quarter panel. I took it to a friend who does body work, and he said it was just going to get worse, and eventually I'd need to get the whole quarter panel redone
. I sold that car soon after that, before it got worse. I'm not saying that will happen to every cheap paint job, but just know that when you aren't spending much money, body shops HAVE to cut corners in order to finish your job without going over the budget. Whether you'll notice those cut corners is a crap shoot. I have no experience with Maaco. However, I've heard their paint jobs aren't bad, as long as you do a lot of the prep yourself. Because those specials they are always advertising on TV, and their cheap prices in general, only include VERY minimal prep and body work. But if you put in a lot of prep work, take off everything you possibly can (lights, mirrors, trim, door handles, etc), and all they have to do is scuff it up, mask it, and spray away, you can end up with a good result, as they have more time to put into actually spraying the car, rather than prep work.
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Idk why but for some reason all the cars i like the majority of people call them ugly
I think its a perfect mini version on the 3 series.
This...
It seems like I always like cars that people frown down upon on here
... Oh well, **** em... They wrong ...
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So for a front bumper repaint is it crazy for me to expect to pay around $250-$350?
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Not my taste in mods, im more a drop/tints/few exterior mods/sleeper kind of guy.
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I don't approve of such hot pocket-ness
Body kit and the wing need to come off atleast
Body kit and the wing need to come off atleast
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2 Fast 2 Furious called, they want the movie prop back
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Can't please everyone
Take away all the exterior cosmetics all the performance upgrades aren't bad at all. Those parts cost a pretty penny.
Take away all the exterior cosmetics all the performance upgrades aren't bad at all. Those parts cost a pretty penny.
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Mods usually decrease the value of a car. That EVO has OD mods. The performance mods aren't bad, but I'd rather drop 35k on a stock or lightly modded car I knew wasn't thrashed, and mod it myself.
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About 6 months ago, when I still had my G35, I had the front bumper resprayed. It cost me $200 from a good shop, but that was because I was there for an insurance claim, and decided to get the front bumper redone at the same time. Normally, they would've charged me $300, but since they already had to order the paint for the insurance claim, they gave me a deal, and just put the extra paint cost for my bumper onto the insurance claim.
So, I think $250-$350 is a reasonable amount to expect to pay from a reputable shop. If you want to save a little money, try and find a guy that does work on the side, you might be able to get it done for around $200 that way.
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That Evo has waaaaay too much BS bolted onto the outside of it for my taste. Get rid of the canards, the front and rear wide body fenders, and the shopping cart handle on the trunk, and it would be alright. Those rear wide body fenders are hideous. Maybe if they were molded into the body they would look better, I dunno. I know bolt on wide bodies are "in" now, but I've never understood why. If you're gonna do a wide body, do it right, mold it into the body so it flows, or don't bother.
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nah Evo 10s suck.
if you wanna spend 35k on an Evo i have a lead on a CRAZY one. it's an 8 with only 11k miles on it. MINT condition. and its fully built. It was owned by the guy who owns Shep Trans. 790 WHP. it's a beast
the guy actually wants to do a trade plus cash for our ZR1 but i don't think we're going to do it, he wont add enough
if you wanna spend 35k on an Evo i have a lead on a CRAZY one. it's an 8 with only 11k miles on it. MINT condition. and its fully built. It was owned by the guy who owns Shep Trans. 790 WHP. it's a beast
the guy actually wants to do a trade plus cash for our ZR1 but i don't think we're going to do it, he wont add enough
This Evo makes 790whp @ 34psi
MOTOR:
-TSCOMP Short block 2.0L
-GSC S3 Camshafts
-Valves/ Springs/Retainers:Ferrea Valves, Springs, Retainers
-Cyclinder Head Modifications:Head Games
-Intake Manifold/Throttle Body: Wilson Intake Manifold, Buschur Racing Throttle Body
-Air Induction System: Green Air Filter, Shearer Fabrications Intake Pipe
-Fuel Injectors:Injector Dynamics ID2000
-Buschur Racing Double Pumper 450 primary & secondary
-Ignition System:Spoolin Up Coil-On-Plug Ignition
-Exhaust Manifold:Shearer Fabrications
-Exhaust System/Downpipe Ultimate Racing 3-inch Exhaust
-Wastegate TiAL Sport 44mm Wastegate
-Blow-Off Valve:TiAL Sport 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Intercooler:Buschur Racing Big Front-mount Intercooler
Turbocharger
-Turbocharger:Forced Performance HTA3586
-Frame:T3
-Compressor Wheel Specs:86mm Major, 62mm Inducer
-Turbine Wheel Specs:68mm Major
Chassis/Driveline
-Springs, F&R: Megan Racing Springs
-Shocks, F&R;Megan Racing coil over kit, 32 way adjustable with pillow mounts
-Transmission:Sheptrans Stage 2
-Transmission Gearing:Sheptrans Stage 2 with 1 off 5th gear syncro
-Final Drive:4.11:1
-Clutch/Flywheel:Tilton Carbon Carbon Clutch
-Shep stage 3 transfer case
-Differential(s)(Make & Type):Sheptrans modified Factory LSD (R) Wavetrack (F)
-Driveshaft shop rear axles and driveshaft
-ARP extended front studs
-Wheels (Make, Size & Offset):OEM Wheels/ccw for track
-Tires (Make & Size) BF goodrich drag radials Hoosier Quick Time Pro (track)
-Street wheels are ENKEI RPF1 type RC 2 Piece wheels 18×9 with a +18 offset
-Brake Rotors:Girodisc (F) (2-piece Rotors
-Brake Pads (Front & Rear):Hawk Performance
MOTOR:
-TSCOMP Short block 2.0L
-GSC S3 Camshafts
-Valves/ Springs/Retainers:Ferrea Valves, Springs, Retainers
-Cyclinder Head Modifications:Head Games
-Intake Manifold/Throttle Body: Wilson Intake Manifold, Buschur Racing Throttle Body
-Air Induction System: Green Air Filter, Shearer Fabrications Intake Pipe
-Fuel Injectors:Injector Dynamics ID2000
-Buschur Racing Double Pumper 450 primary & secondary
-Ignition System:Spoolin Up Coil-On-Plug Ignition
-Exhaust Manifold:Shearer Fabrications
-Exhaust System/Downpipe Ultimate Racing 3-inch Exhaust
-Wastegate TiAL Sport 44mm Wastegate
-Blow-Off Valve:TiAL Sport 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Intercooler:Buschur Racing Big Front-mount Intercooler
Turbocharger
-Turbocharger:Forced Performance HTA3586
-Frame:T3
-Compressor Wheel Specs:86mm Major, 62mm Inducer
-Turbine Wheel Specs:68mm Major
Chassis/Driveline
-Springs, F&R: Megan Racing Springs
-Shocks, F&R;Megan Racing coil over kit, 32 way adjustable with pillow mounts
-Transmission:Sheptrans Stage 2
-Transmission Gearing:Sheptrans Stage 2 with 1 off 5th gear syncro
-Final Drive:4.11:1
-Clutch/Flywheel:Tilton Carbon Carbon Clutch
-Shep stage 3 transfer case
-Differential(s)(Make & Type):Sheptrans modified Factory LSD (R) Wavetrack (F)
-Driveshaft shop rear axles and driveshaft
-ARP extended front studs
-Wheels (Make, Size & Offset):OEM Wheels/ccw for track
-Tires (Make & Size) BF goodrich drag radials Hoosier Quick Time Pro (track)
-Street wheels are ENKEI RPF1 type RC 2 Piece wheels 18×9 with a +18 offset
-Brake Rotors:Girodisc (F) (2-piece Rotors
-Brake Pads (Front & Rear):Hawk Performance
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Made a video of the stock exhaust before it comes off
