GQ's "Know Your Shirt"
Can't tell the difference between royal oxford and broadcloth? GQ's ultimate dress-shirt guide, from collar to cuff
The fabrics
Cotton is a fiber. How it's woven determines the type of fabric.
From left to right:
Oxford cloth: Named after the university. Hardy, affordable, and will last forever. (Izod, $39)
Royal oxford: Dressier than its namesake and made of a finer weave. Not for schoolboys. (Boss Black, $125)
End-on-end: Woven with a white thread and, in the opposite direction, a colored thread, to produce that pinpoint look. (J.Crew, $60)
Broadcloth: Lightweight and professional. What you wear with your suit and tie when you get a real job. (Dunhill, $130)
Chevron: The herringbone pattern, in any two colors, gives you an elegant look. For the dandy. (Tommy Hilfiger Crest Collection, $70)
The patterns
The days of a monochromatic shirt-and-tie combo have passed. Time to add some punch to your look.
The collars
Not all ties go with all collars. Know how to pair them.
1. Button-down
Very American. Geared more toward gray flannel or a blue blazer than an elegant European-cut suit. Best with medium-width ties.
Shirt, $36, by Arrow. Tie, $95, by Jack Spade.
2. Spread
The most dashing, confident collar out there. Best with a medium-to-wide tie. And go for a traditional four-in-hand knot; it's okay for a bit of the tie toshow around the collar.
Shirt, $145, Polo by Ralph Lauren. Tie, $125, by Dunhill.
3. Long point
The collar's narrow stance means it tucks nicely into high-cut three-button suits. Good for narrow-to-skinny ties.
Shirt, $40, by Claiborne. Tie, $40, by Original Penguin.
4. Semi-spread
Flattering and forgiving-the Everyman collar. Works great with medium-to-skinny ties.
Shirt, $60, by Nautica. Tie, $85, by Gant.
The cuffs
Make sure they fit correctly. And have your suit sleeves tailored so they show a bit of cuff.
Clockwise, from top left:
Convertible: The adjustable buttons allow for narrow or wider cuffs, giving you room for an oversize watch. (Geoffrey Beene, $40)
French: The dressiest of the bunch. But you don't have to wear business cuff links and a power tie with them. Try an open collar and more creative links.(Charles Tyrwhitt, $99)
Two-button barrel: For the guy who wants a shirt with as much flair as his British or Italian-made suit. (Gucci, $295).
Single-button standard: When fitting properly, they should reach the hinge of your wrist. (Ermenegildo Zegna, $295)