Official CAR AUDIO Thread FAQ added

My laser went out in my Civics stock CD player last week. Can anyone recommend me the best CD player under 200?
 
Currently, I have an Oldschool Orion HccA 12d [1999/2000] sub in a ported box.
If it matters:
2.5 cubes of airspace tuned to 33 hz
Port area is at 34.5 sq. inches

I'm not too well-versed in car audio, and I was wondering what amp would be sufficient for this sub.
Here is the spec sheet, looking at the 12D.


I currently have a Memphis CA300 (150 watt x 2) (bridged) powering it, which I don't think is giving it its fair share of power (though oldschool and underrated).

The specs only list the pmax which is 1200watts but nothing about the rms.  Is it just safe to half it to estimate the rms?

I was looking at the SAZ 1500D, which I assume is an overkill?  I think a Kicker 750.1 would be more reasonable.

My budget is preferably under $350.

Lastly, the sub is dual 2 ohm at an assumed 600w rms, so what kind of amp specs would I need to look for? the dual part throws me off.  does that mean I should wire the sub in parallel at a 1 ohm load so each side gets 2 ohms?  And does the dual part affect the amount of power I need? Do I need more or less? Or should I go with a 750.1, in general

--Edit--
The kicker is 750 watts @ 2 ohms, which makes it 1000w @ 1ohm aka it's too much?

I think I just need a good amp that is 750 watt @ 1 ohm stable, with a remote.

--Edit--
The mono kicker is only 2ohm / 4 ohm stable. D'oh!

Asked another guy from CA that had the exact same sub and he responded: "

I've heard of people running 1200 rms to them no problem

I know a number of old school car audio equipment are really underrated, but THAT underrated??  I'm scared of blowing my sub, but if that comment has any potential, I'm ready to pull the trigger on this SAZ 1000
 
Originally Posted by E Double19

Mondaynight, what do you think about this? I'm not really knowledgeable on the car audio stuff.

http://www.onlinecarstere...99_Kicker_08VS12L72.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstere...664_Kicker_10ZX7501.aspx

I also want some decent speakers

Going into 08 impala SS without the bose system
600 dollars for one amp and a L7?! 
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If you ballin then whatev..

But id keep looking. Craigslist is a good place to go. 

It's a good choice of equipment tho, you could do some damage with one 12 L7.
 
If an amp gives out 1000w at 1 ohms, and 500 watts at 2 ohms

2lijuo9.jpg

How would you explain the amount of power the sub is getting?
I understand it's wired in parallel and there is 1000watts at a 1ohm load form the amp.  Does that mean since the sub is seeing 2 ohms per side, it's getting 500 watts per side, which would equal the 1000watt load?
 
Originally Posted by kiendienn

Currently, I have an Oldschool Orion HccA 12d [1999/2000] sub in a ported box.
If it matters:
2.5 cubes of airspace tuned to 33 hz
Port area is at 34.5 sq. inches

I'm not too well-versed in car audio, and I was wondering what amp would be sufficient for this sub.
Here is the spec sheet, looking at the 12D.


I currently have a Memphis CA300 (150 watt x 2) (bridged) powering it, which I don't think is giving it its fair share of power (though oldschool and underrated).

The specs only list the pmax which is 1200watts but nothing about the rms.  Is it just safe to half it to estimate the rms?

I was looking at the SAZ 1500D, which I assume is an overkill?  I think a Kicker 750.1 would be more reasonable.

My budget is preferably under $350.

Lastly, the sub is dual 2 ohm at an assumed 600w rms, so what kind of amp specs would I need to look for? the dual part throws me off.  does that mean I should wire the sub in parallel at a 1 ohm load so each side gets 2 ohms?  And does the dual part affect the amount of power I need? Do I need more or less? Or should I go with a 750.1, in general

--Edit--
The kicker is 750 watts @ 2 ohms, which makes it 1000w @ 1ohm aka it's too much?

I think I just need a good amp that is 750 watt @ 1 ohm stable, with a remote.

--Edit--
The mono kicker is only 2ohm / 4 ohm stable. D'oh!

Asked another guy from CA that had the exact same sub and he responded: "

I've heard of people running 1200 rms to them no problem
I know a number of old school car audio equipment are really underrated, but THAT underrated??  I'm scared of blowing my sub, but if that comment has any potential, I'm ready to pull the trigger on this SAZ 1000
The sub won't blow

Get this and wire it to 4 ohms
http://cgi.ebay.com/Sound...id%3D8927405346139907202


Originally Posted by E Double19

Mondaynight, what do you think about this? I'm not really knowledgeable on the car audio stuff.

http://www.onlinecarstere...99_Kicker_08VS12L72.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstere...664_Kicker_10ZX7501.aspx

I also want some decent speakers

Going into 08 impala SS without the bose system
Bad Idea

If you want go to with the l7's, go with a couple 8's. 2-3 would be nice.

Originally Posted by Tetsujin23

Recommend me an amp for my whip. (BMW E39) for subs.
What ohm
 
Why would that be a bad idea? Is that equipment no good or too much? And if you don't mind, can you post me a setup with about $1500 budget. Woofer, amp, speakers. Thanks
 
Can ya'll recommend me a system for a 96 Buick Riviera with a >1500 budget..

I'm completely clueless when it comes to car audio, but I recenty got a new whip and got some $ to blow. I really have no preferences, just something that knocks (since 90% of what I listen to is rap) without sacrificing the overall sound clarity.

Here's some pics of the car...
buick-riviera-1998_7458.jpg


P7089B.25.jpg


11378A.08.jpg
 
Just picked up a 12" iDMax V3 (2 ohm), with custom box (1.4 cubes)

MMN, should I stick to the sealed box?
 
Originally Posted by NINE to FIVE

Can ya'll recommend me a system for a 96 Buick Riviera with a >1500 budget..

I'm completely clueless when it comes to car audio, but I recenty got a new whip and got some $ to blow. I really have no preferences, just something that knocks (since 90% of what I listen to is rap) without sacrificing the overall sound clarity.

Here's some pics of the car...
buick-riviera-1998_7458.jpg


P7089B.25.jpg


11378A.08.jpg

You should start out with a budget. is it greater than or less than?
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Then what you're wanting to replace specifically.
Heaunit - do you want double din? dvd player? ipod compatibility? front or rear aux input?
Front speakers
Do you want rear fill?
What size sub do you want? How many subs do you want? How big do you want the box? (are you willing to sacrifice most of your trunk space?)

I think if you go over this thread, you'll find answers for most of your questions.

For your car, you're lookin at 5.25 in the front and 6.5 in the back

Will you be installing this yourself?

All of which are preliminary questions that should be answered before MMN can get into specifics
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Originally Posted by Scienz of Life

after much delay I'm finally ready to buckle down and get a pair of these:
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/10"-SSA-DCON-10D4{47}S4.html

I remember you telling me to get the dual 4 ohm coils....

my question is what amp should I roll with?
you recommended me one a while back but I don't feel like sifting through all these pages

and where can I get a box? (ported)
Get this for your subs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ZRS-C...&hash=item1c188ae18c

Originally Posted by NINE to FIVE

Can ya'll recommend me a system for a 96 Buick Riviera with a >1500 budget..

I'm completely clueless when it comes to car audio, but I recenty got a new whip and got some $ to blow. I really have no preferences, just something that knocks (since 90% of what I listen to is rap) without sacrificing the overall sound clarity.

Here's some pics of the car...
buick-riviera-1998_7458.jpg


P7089B.25.jpg


11378A.08.jpg

I posted one for 1500 a couple of replies up

Originally Posted by kiendienn

Just picked up a 12" iDMax V3 (2 ohm), with custom box (1.4 cubes)

MMN, should I stick to the sealed box?

1.4 to on the small side. Go 1.9 net
 
Originally Posted by mondaynightraw

Originally Posted by kiendienn

Just picked up a 12" iDMax V3 (2 ohm), with custom box (1.4 cubes)

MMN, should I stick to the sealed box?

1.4 to on the small side. Go 1.9 net
The seller has it in the custom 1.4 box already, but I'll get a new box if necessary.

I ended up getting the soundstream 1.1600 you recommended. 
Considering the IDMAXv3D2 is 1000rms, and I hear a lot of "very picky when it comes to power...2.5" coil doesnt like to be overpowered much".

Should I just go 1 ohm load and play it really safe with the gains? Otherwise the 4 ohm load would be underpowering it.
 
I need to know if I should upgrade my wires.

I have these Amps set up:
American Audio:
2 x 120W @ 4 Ohms
2 x 240W @ 2 Ohms

Alpine MRP F257:
~75 watts

Soundstream 1.1600 [New addition to my car]


My current wire configuration is:
1 x 4 gauge w/fuse from battery to a distro block into the trunk
Then 8 gauge from the distro block to each amp

I'm scared because I've never had a 1600 watt amp, so I'm not sure if I need to upgrade wires or just stick to the 8 gauge.

Should I run 4 gauge to the soundstream from the distro?

Or do I need to go bigger and upgrade to 0/1 gauge from the battery to the trunk, as well.
 
And keep the 4 gauge running from the battery?

My car came with the old alpine and I didn't want to remove it, so I just ran it to some CDT coax for the rear.
The alpine wouldn't be enough for my front, so I bought the AA to power those.
And the soundstream was the one you recommended me for my idmax.

I was planning to run the initial cable from the battery to this distro block in the back
http://www.knukonceptz.co...Detail.cfm?prodID=KNF-23

The initial wire already has a fuse, so I don't need to put anymore fuses in the distro block right?
 
sorry for the sideways view.. dam phone somehow sets it up sideways whenever i send it to photobucket.

if you look closely you can see a dude in the window, my phone couldnt pick up the window vibrating tho 
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