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I see what you did there.
\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //
I see what you did there.
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Anyone see that GTR getting smoked yesterday on Street Outlaws? By a pickup too. White Rhino made that GTR look like my Si from a dig. 
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Saw this on a local facebook page this morning, who's the Hellcat creeper?
everysingletime
formerly amel223
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Wondering if the wrx guys in here can help me out a bit
When I shift to 3rd, 4th gear and higher my shifts are mostly smooth
Shifting to 2nd is kinda tough. I find that I have to let off the throttle a bit longer and let the rpm drop off some more before I shift to 2nd. I haven't found a way yet that I can get back on the gas faster without getting that jerk.
I visited a subie forum and they say to get on 2nd earlier (2k) and let 2nd do more of the accelerating. Is that right?
When I shift to 3rd, 4th gear and higher my shifts are mostly smooth
Shifting to 2nd is kinda tough. I find that I have to let off the throttle a bit longer and let the rpm drop off some more before I shift to 2nd. I haven't found a way yet that I can get back on the gas faster without getting that jerk.
I visited a subie forum and they say to get on 2nd earlier (2k) and let 2nd do more of the accelerating. Is that right?
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I'm interested in reading the answer to this question also
thinking about getting mudflaps for the STI. Is Rally Armor the brand to get?
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theres much more factors into making power, than simply a displacement to horsepower ratio.
displacement isnt correlated to the actual size of the engine, just how much volume of air displacement is going inside the engine.
piston travel and stroke also have a major factor, as well as compression ratio.
basically, american cars ususally have more low-end power, where the BMW s65 motor (you are comparing to) is a high revving motor.
its apples and oranges.
american engines are great, why do you think people swap LS motors into almost everything? Because its small, compact, easy to work on and makes a ton of power. Even though its 5.7 liters, it fits into a car that came with a 2.4L such as a 240sx.
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IDK
almost all the STI's I see have them and after looking up what they're used for I guess it can help prevent rocks or **** from scratching the paint
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I'm interested in reading the answer to this question also3rd and above is butter but second sometimes is a little rough for me too.
thinking about getting mudflaps for the STI. Is Rally Armor the brand to get?
Im not sure if it just a subi thing but BRZ guys have had success with one or all three of the following
-Changing the trans and diff fluid (this seems to work for most people)
-Removing the helper spring on the clutch pedal
-Adjusting the pedal height
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IDK
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I found the same thing with my G35 when I got it, it was really tough to make the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts smooth. It took a while before I got it down. Nothing is wrong with the car, no need to take it in to the dealership. What you're describing about letting the rpm drops is essentially matching your revs to the appropriate gear, in order to make the shifts smooth, and not as jerky.
Here's a post I read on a forum a while back. It's long and kind of techie, so I put it in a spoiler, but it helped me understand what exactly was going on, maybe it'll help you too. The ft lb numbers are arbitrary, but the idea is the same regardless of vehicle.
If you want easy shift, gentle acceleration, then you need to be slower on the clutch. If you need to resume to high acceleration, then you want to feed the gas quicker.
A "jump" -- sudden acceleration in this case is caused by the combination of two things.
1. When the rpm is still higher than where it needs to be for 2nd gear (clutch still slipping), the clutch engagement determines acceleration (not the throttle input). That means the torque being felt is controlled by the location of your clutch pedal -- from 0 (initial free play region) to well over 270ft-lb (somewhere near the final inches of release). It's a relatively short time, but you can easily achieve some significant torque with the clutch release (dump clutch means a lot more than 270 ft-lb instantly). Let's say you release the clutch a little too fast and by the time the rpm drops to the right value (clutch stops slipping), you are putting 200ft-lb of torque through the clutch, that's a pretty good acceleration -- achieved at a short time. But that's not a complete jump yet. The following must happen after this:
2. At the moment the rpm is at the right level -- the clutch stops slipping, that 200 ft-lb of torque is GONE. This is not easy to understand but true. At that moment, the torque going to the drive train is decided by your throttle. If the throttle is low, say 100 ft-lb of engine torque, the delivered torque will instantly drop from 200 to 100 ft-lb, meaning instant drop of acceleration. This completes the jump -- surge up then drop down.
Once you understand this, you can decide how to solve it. If you only want 100ft-lb worth of acceleration, just release the clutch a little slower so you don't get to 200ft-lb. Don't worry about riding the clutch. You can dump the clutch as soon as the rpm stops dropping at the righ level. If you do want 200ft-lb worth of acceleration, just put the throttle down a little faster. If by the time the clutch stops slipping, the engine is also putting out 200ft-lb of torque, then you will simply feel the torque surge to 200 and be sustained after the shift (I prefer that a lot of times ).
Either way you want it, you don't have to go slow during the initial free play of the clutch. You do want to cover that ASAP. That distance is easily learned after driving your car for a while. But after you cover that distance, you basically need to adjust the speed of your clutch and throttle so they match to give you one of those desired acceleration, or infinitely many different levels of acceleration.
I have to admit that it's easier said than done. But if you understand the mechanics behind that, you'll realize that there's no easy way around it. Just practice, practice, and more practice. When you're trying to figure out what you did wrong, it helps to understand what I described above. Just think a little bit AFTER every mistake, and adjust a little next time until you can FEEL it. It's rewarding if you can get it.
A "jump" -- sudden acceleration in this case is caused by the combination of two things.
1. When the rpm is still higher than where it needs to be for 2nd gear (clutch still slipping), the clutch engagement determines acceleration (not the throttle input). That means the torque being felt is controlled by the location of your clutch pedal -- from 0 (initial free play region) to well over 270ft-lb (somewhere near the final inches of release). It's a relatively short time, but you can easily achieve some significant torque with the clutch release (dump clutch means a lot more than 270 ft-lb instantly). Let's say you release the clutch a little too fast and by the time the rpm drops to the right value (clutch stops slipping), you are putting 200ft-lb of torque through the clutch, that's a pretty good acceleration -- achieved at a short time. But that's not a complete jump yet. The following must happen after this:
2. At the moment the rpm is at the right level -- the clutch stops slipping, that 200 ft-lb of torque is GONE. This is not easy to understand but true. At that moment, the torque going to the drive train is decided by your throttle. If the throttle is low, say 100 ft-lb of engine torque, the delivered torque will instantly drop from 200 to 100 ft-lb, meaning instant drop of acceleration. This completes the jump -- surge up then drop down.
Once you understand this, you can decide how to solve it. If you only want 100ft-lb worth of acceleration, just release the clutch a little slower so you don't get to 200ft-lb. Don't worry about riding the clutch. You can dump the clutch as soon as the rpm stops dropping at the righ level. If you do want 200ft-lb worth of acceleration, just put the throttle down a little faster. If by the time the clutch stops slipping, the engine is also putting out 200ft-lb of torque, then you will simply feel the torque surge to 200 and be sustained after the shift (I prefer that a lot of times ).
Either way you want it, you don't have to go slow during the initial free play of the clutch. You do want to cover that ASAP. That distance is easily learned after driving your car for a while. But after you cover that distance, you basically need to adjust the speed of your clutch and throttle so they match to give you one of those desired acceleration, or infinitely many different levels of acceleration.
I have to admit that it's easier said than done. But if you understand the mechanics behind that, you'll realize that there's no easy way around it. Just practice, practice, and more practice. When you're trying to figure out what you did wrong, it helps to understand what I described above. Just think a little bit AFTER every mistake, and adjust a little next time until you can FEEL it. It's rewarding if you can get it.
At the end of the day, only practice will help you smooth out your shifts, once you get that feel down you'll be good, it'll just take some time, every car is different.
everysingletime
formerly amel223
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Thanks for the help, man. Repped. Even though I still don't quite understand. The spoilered text was a little confusing. I will keep practicing.
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i had rally armors on my old Evo. it helped a lot because i have a gravel driveway, so with my wide wheels and tires, mud/rocks were getting shot all over the side of my car when it rained.
But i never did put them on my new evo just because i prefer the looks without them
if you aren't ever going to see dirt,mud,gravel,etc. i wouldn't put them on
But i never did put them on my new evo just because i prefer the looks without them
if you aren't ever going to see dirt,mud,gravel,etc. i wouldn't put them on
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It definitely is a little confusing. Here's another way of looking at it.
At every speed, each gear has a RPM that corresponds to a "smooth" spot. So, for example, say 15MPH corresponds to 3k RPM in 1st gear, and 2k RPM in 2nd gear. Like you said, when you let the RPMs fall from 3k and then shift into 2nd gear at 2k RPM, it's smooth. Going from "smooth spot" to "smooth spot" will translate into smooth shifts. Shifting outside of these smooth spots will result in jerky shifts. This is what people are talking about when they say "rev matching". It works the same way upshifting, as it does downshifting. I'm sure you know when you downshift out of 2nd at 2k RPMs , travelling at 15MPH, directly into 1st, it's jerky as well. That's because (using my earlier example) 1st gear wants to be at 3k RPMs when going 15MPH. (All these numbers are arbitrary, as each car will be different).
Letting the clutch out slower, or providing some gas while letting the clutch out, can help with smoothing out shifts, if you aren't in your "smooth spots". But ultimately, it just comes down to getting a feel for the car, where the clutch engages, and the RPM's that result in a smooth shift.
Hopefully that made sense
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I LOVE NT
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Saw this on a local facebook page this morning, who's the Hellcat creeper?
Her boyfriend probably drives an import my mans intimidated her with that v8 growl and rumble shorty couldn't handle it.
Wrx breaking down daaaam looks like bmw got some competition.
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Damn that thing is weird, never even heard of it. Does it have GoPros all over it or something?
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I thought everyone knew about it. It's Tesla's up coming crossover and has gullwing-ish rear doors. The smaller more affordable Model 3 sedan will be up next. You gotta appreciate Musk's sense of humor by offering models S, 3 and X. I like Teslas but I wouldn't want one.
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The doors on that X is crazy.
Man watch the model 3 be trash. Shaped like Damn Prius.
Man watch the model 3 be trash. Shaped like Damn Prius.
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Thinking about pulling the trigger on this.
Completely different pace from that Camaro I was looking at a couple months ago.
E92 328i 2008 49k miles $17k
But there's a couple 2010's around me too for the same price. Grey with coral interior. On 2 of them.
This black one has Terra (brown) interior and it's smooth. Took it for a test drive. Definitely slower than my Maxima. Almost like driving my accord but it's handles much better and is a little quicker.
Scared of copping a 335... Don't need that headache right now with the N54 engines. Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I'll take a look at those too. A lot of dudes on e90 post have been complaining. But I already know the power is much better
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Get the camaro pls. You are already having visions of the headaches
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Camaro! It'd be so much easier to own and repair. Especially if you're looking at an SS and are mechanically inclined.
