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I got a solution for you, get the meFOTO globetrotter, you can unscrew one of its legs and turn it into a Monopod
The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3
- Thread in 'General' Thread starter Started by rap sizzle,
- Start date
I got a solution for you, get the meFOTO globetrotter, you can unscrew one of its legs and turn it into a Monopod
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hey @ksteezy i got a question about the peak design clips. I'm thinking of getting the pro pack with the leash and all but how many quick release mounts does it come with? ill be using two cameras a lot this summer and figured this might be the cheaper way to go then getting a holdfast moneymaker
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Is one quick release per clip I assume bro, so 2 cameras 2 clips, however if you plan on using a flash, is recommend something else, the clips are awesome if you shoot without flash, it will be very uncomfortable to clip on a flash on the camera, thing will stick out too much.
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I'll take a look at the CPL's.
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Made this one today
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The Lox. Kind of sucks cause I was telling you guys I had a photo pass for this but when I got my ticket, none of them knew what I was talking about. But I ended up getting front row but didn't use my flash at all. Only got some gems but not as much as I wanted.
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Those are pretty awesome Fong....
Question, how do you manage to nail the focus without the assist beam from the flash at the very least?
Also how the hell ya be getting backstage passes to these things, I would love to do this on the side, looks like a lot of fun.
Question, how do you manage to nail the focus without the assist beam from the flash at the very least?
Also how the hell ya be getting backstage passes to these things, I would love to do this on the side, looks like a lot of fun.
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Thanks man. I have to credit the focus on the Mark 3. The thing is just spot on more times then most. I shot at about ISO 3200 or so but the lighting helped a lot even though most of it was red but you don't really need a beam assist in that case. Typically I hate I red light cause it never looks that great imo but I made some of the photos work for what I got. To also show my shots in a realistic light, I shot about 300 photos (which is actually not a whole lot) and only came out with a solid 7 or 8 that I liked. The ratio of good to bad is still not that great but with other cameras, I'd probably come out with nothing.
And the photo pass thing....I just asked someone that worked there and they seemed pretty cool abut it. I still haven't officially had a pass so all my concert photos are actually just cause the venue allowed me to bring my DSLR. This place was probably the least strict though. I brought my camera bag with like 3 lenses and flash and got in even without no proof of having a photo pass. I still got one more shot at this though cause i got a photo pass for a Juicy J concert coming up in a month. Hopefully I can use my flash for that one.
And the photo pass thing....I just asked someone that worked there and they seemed pretty cool abut it. I still haven't officially had a pass so all my concert photos are actually just cause the venue allowed me to bring my DSLR. This place was probably the least strict though. I brought my camera bag with like 3 lenses and flash and got in even without no proof of having a photo pass. I still got one more shot at this though cause i got a photo pass for a Juicy J concert coming up in a month. Hopefully I can use my flash for that one.
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those last 2 photos are dope fong
have you tried tweaking the white balance to get rid of the red light on post processing? that's what i usually do on concert photos when the lights don't cooperate.. i try to balance it out and try to get the subjects skin color as much as possible. if that doesn't work out, that's the only time i make em black and white or leave it as it is
have you tried tweaking the white balance to get rid of the red light on post processing? that's what i usually do on concert photos when the lights don't cooperate.. i try to balance it out and try to get the subjects skin color as much as possible. if that doesn't work out, that's the only time i make em black and white or leave it as it is
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Thanks.I did have the white balance on a blue hue but the lights were partially strong here. They hardly used white light at all. The photo below is probably my only salvable one but he rest are mostly red and blue. They actually hardly tracked the light on the Lox at all. They seemed almost just random lights that shown in one area of the stage.
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need some asst need to know a nice camera to start with for under 300.00 thanks in advance....
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SLR? P&S?
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I'm i the only one that's a sucker for ambient light?...I LOOOOOOOOVE THE RED AND BLUE HUES on those first pics Fong, it's real..I mean that's actually how your own eyes would have perceived the show....as long as the focus is nailed those pics are winners
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I def prefer the red and blue
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So I finally have the funds to get my camera and I've been looking into polarizers now. I'm considering Hoya or B+W. I'm assuming those are the top two brands because I always read about them? I could be wrong though. I was thinking about getting a polarizer for my 28mm but I'm reading that vignetting is a problem on wide angle lenses? Is anyone that has a wide angle with a polarizer experiencing that problem?
I was thinking about grabbing this filter http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/900344-REG/Hoya_calp52crpl_52mm_Alpha_Circular_Polarizer.html although the B+W one is $40 more (not sure why) and just getting a step-up ring for the other lenses.
Also I remember @Fongstarr mentioning getting a ND filter to achieve that silky smooth water effect like the one below but I was looking on bhphoto and they have solid, graduated, variable, and center nd filters. What's the difference between all of them?
Also does the sky in this image look like an nd filter was used? Or it could've just been photoshopped in which is what I'm thinking since a lot of his shots have that same sky effect.
I was thinking about grabbing this filter http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/900344-REG/Hoya_calp52crpl_52mm_Alpha_Circular_Polarizer.html although the B+W one is $40 more (not sure why) and just getting a step-up ring for the other lenses.
Also I remember @Fongstarr mentioning getting a ND filter to achieve that silky smooth water effect like the one below but I was looking on bhphoto and they have solid, graduated, variable, and center nd filters. What's the difference between all of them?
Also does the sky in this image look like an nd filter was used? Or it could've just been photoshopped in which is what I'm thinking since a lot of his shots have that same sky effect.
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So I finally have the funds to get my camera and I've been looking into polarizers now. I'm considering Hoya or B+W. I'm assuming those are the top two brands because I always read about them? I could be wrong though. I was thinking about getting a polarizer for my 28mm but I'm reading that vignetting is a problem on wide angle lenses? Is anyone that has a wide angle with a polarizer experiencing that problem?
I was thinking about grabbing this filter http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/900344-REG/Hoya_calp52crpl_52mm_Alpha_Circular_Polarizer.html although the B+W one is $40 more (not sure why) and just getting a step-up ring for the other lenses.
Also I remember @Fongstarr mentioning getting a ND filter to achieve that silky smooth water effect like the one below but I was looking on bhphoto and they have solid, graduated, variable, and center nd filters. What's the difference between all of them?
Also does the sky in this image look like an nd filter was used? Or it could've just been photoshopped in which is what I'm thinking since a lot of his shots have that same sky effect.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/752972-REG/B_W_1066398_67mm_XS_Pro_Digital_MC.html that is the polarizer I just bought. it's not a thick filter. my nd filter is actually wider than that. I don't think it should be a problem because if you're going to be using a polarizer you wont be able to use a lens hood which extends farther so i dont think the filter will be an issue with vignetting unless you start stacking filters. also make sure you are looking at the filter size for your lens because that was a 52mm filter and my 28mm lens has a 67mm filter size.
I have a circular nd and then one 0.6 nd filter. I am considering getting another circular but from B+W but it's very expensive. I just like the ability to adjust it just right.
I don't think a polarizer was used on that shot because the reflection on the car wouldnt be an issue from the clouds like it is, maybe an ND filter but I don't think it was used
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What do you mean when you say you have a 0.6 nd filter? I looked at my lens cap and it said 52mm so I'm just going by that number, I hope that's right.
Now I just have to figure out the differences between all these polarizers.
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There are circular nd filters and then solid nd filters. Nd filters have different power or density or whatever the term is. A 0.6 knocks the exposure down 2 stops. I think every stop is .3 but dont quote me on that. I guess I'm just caught off guard at how small your 28mm thread is.
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Any NY'ers down for a photowalk? Weather's finally getting nice. And I'm sure it's only a matter of time until Bobby Hundreds brings his street meet to NY, but until then, it'd be cool to learn from one another. I'm sure a lot of us have a bunch of questions for some of the other guys on here.
And also, any videographers in here? I've been messing around with video on the Mark 3 and it's a lot of fun. Also got the chance to do a BTS for some friends performing in a dance comp, it's just the editing that I'm having a little bit of trouble with.
And also, any videographers in here? I've been messing around with video on the Mark 3 and it's a lot of fun. Also got the chance to do a BTS for some friends performing in a dance comp, it's just the editing that I'm having a little bit of trouble with.
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Thanks for explaining that. I guess I have a lot more left to learn about polarizers.
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To be honest, I just learned all of this stuff. The polarizer stuff actually clicked a couple weeks ago when I switched to contact lenses so I could wear sunglasses while driving. I noticed the glare disappear from my windshield because my sunglasses were polarized. I was like this is one of the effects I was chasing by investing in ND filters. Luckily stacking them isn't bad if they are made with good glass. I use my ND filter to shoot with a shallow depth of field with my strobes and now my polarizer will take care of the glare etc for me.
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yanky, as for the vignetting, get the slim polarizer. It should lessen/eliminate any vignetting. Also, I wouldn't class Hoya and B+W together. The reason why the B+W filter is more expensive is because B+W is regarded to as one of the better brands. And as for the top brands, I would probably say Heliopan and Singh-Ray are up there. You should take a look at them 
Variable ND filters, you can adjust the number of stops. Gradient, is pretty much what it says it is. It's a gradient of ND from top do bottom. I don't know too much about centered ND filters.x
For the clouds, I think they just messed with the Luminance a bit in post.
Variable ND filters, you can adjust the number of stops. Gradient, is pretty much what it says it is. It's a gradient of ND from top do bottom. I don't know too much about centered ND filters.x
For the clouds, I think they just messed with the Luminance a bit in post.
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