The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

[grizzlyboy]

Does anyone have a Samsung NX300? Thoughts?

 

[219elite]

Why did you shoot at f11 at night?....

i use a 10 second shutter, so i moved the f-stop to 11 to cut down on the amount of light being processed. what would you recommend?

 

[219elite]

Ok a few suggestions (and this is under the assumption you attempted to handhold that shot):

- You're going backwards with the ISO..if you're handholding you need to pump that ISO up to compensate..forget about the noise..get a sharp as possible picture
- Pumping the ISO up will reduce that 10 sec shutter you have going on = sharper picture
- If you're going to shoot at f/11 @ night, you almost positively have to be on a tripod. No one can handhold a 10 sec exposure and return w/ a sharp picture.

If you had pushed that T3i to  3200 ISO and used a lower f-stop you that could have been a relatively hand-holdable shot (not going to do all the math) and would have been much sharper.

backwards? i thought bumping the iso up can cause distortion? I'm glad you cleared that up for me. it wasn't handheld, sat it on a table since i didn't have a tripod at the time.

so at 3200 what f-stop would you guess would think have been ideal? trying to fully understand what you and steezy are explaining.
i was using the 50mm 1.8 btw

 

[219elite]

actually shot this one at iso 3200 at f/3.5 on the kit lens.


is this the difference in results you guys spoke of?

 

[yanky]

yanky, as for the vignetting, get the slim polarizer. It should lessen/eliminate any vignetting. Also, I wouldn't class Hoya and B+W together. The reason why the B+W filter is more expensive is because B+W is regarded to as one of the better brands. And as for the top brands, I would probably say Heliopan and Singh-Ray are up there. You should take a look at them

Variable ND filters, you can adjust the number of stops. Gradient, is pretty much what it says it is. It's a gradient of ND from top do bottom. I don't know too much about centered ND filters.x

For the clouds, I think they just messed with the Luminance a bit in post.

Right on for the info. I wasn't sure which brand was the best and I've only seen a few since I haven't really done much research on polarizers yet but I will continue to look into it. Thanks for letting me know about variable and gradient filters, looks like I might go with the variable.

 

[Fong$tarr]

^^^^Was that handheld or tripod? Handheld, then you'll get shots like that but if tripod, you still have it backwards. Just remember rule of thumb, if you have a tripod or even laying your camera on the ground, drop your ISO lower and not higher and have your F-stop more closed (F/10-22). ISO is used if you need the camera to shoot wide open with a higher shutter aka a quick shot and used when doing a more handheld shot.

So when you go back to that location, try shooting at like f/10-12, ISO 100-200 and then just figure out what the shutter is based on those settings. Seeing how you want to do more long exposures at night, just do yourself a favor and get a tripod and even a remote. It literally makes that much of a difference and is a good investment into photography without spending boat loads of cash.

 

[219elite]

thanks Fong,
this was handheld. and i think I'm understanding it now. with the tripod, i can use a lower iso because i can slow the shutter down to allow more light and not have to worry about camera shake, right? and when doing handheld shots, i should use a higher iso to compensate for the faster shutter speed?

thanks for your patience guys lol. its coming slowly but surely

 

[Fong$tarr]

^^^Yup...pretty much. It's almost virtually impossible to do long exposures handheld without having some sort movement to your camera. The best thing you can do in this case is just bump up the ISO and get a low light shot that way. The ISO grain can be good if done effectively. Also this is where better cameras come into play because a camera with a better ISO can create really solid handheld shots without any tripods.

Check out this post on The Hundreds: http://thehundreds.com/also-known-as-the-brooklyn-bridge/

Shot with a D800. There are a combination of handheld to tripod shots from all of these and to the untrained eye, some might not even know from one to the other. According to my EXIF viewer on Chrome, he shot most of his tripod shots at ISO 50 at f/6.3 and his handheld shots were all ISO 2000 and F/2.8.

 

[hadegbite]

Chevron Downtown Houston by hadegbite, on Flickr


Untitled by hadegbite, on Flickr

 

[ediaz411]

Anyone see the new sony a7s??

 

[Fong$tarr]

^^^^I saw it. Seems more geared for video but I am sure people will like the size of the camera. New technology is kind of a hit and miss cause they get more perfected with later models. Still....Sony has come out guns blazing as of late with this whole market of cameras.

http://www.photographybay.com/2014/04/06/sony-a7s-unveiled-with-a-12mp-sensor-and-4k-video/

 

[hadegbite]

Looks great for my line of work but im with Fongstarr, i typical wait till second generation on these types of innovations. Also would love to see the Canon competitor.

 

[jtothao]

www.amadteapartyphoto.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/a_mad_tea_party/

Instagram @amadteaparty

we are all mad here

 

[Nawzlew]

I want a full frame so bad


Thoughts on the Sigma 30mm 1.4? Would it be much of a difference between that and a nifty fifty?

 

[tokes99]

thanks Fong,
this was handheld. and i think I'm understanding it now. with the tripod, i can use a lower iso because i can slow the shutter down to allow more light and not have to worry about camera shake, right? and when doing handheld shots, i should use a higher iso to compensate for the faster shutter speed?

thanks for your patience guys lol. its coming slowly but surely

also, as a rough guide, you can use the effective focal length rule to avoid blurring for handheld shots. basically for a given effective focal length (focal length of lens multiplied by the crop factor of your camera, i think the t3i is 1.5) you generally need to have you shutter speed not go below 1/effective focal length example if you are shooting @ 35mm on a crop sensor (effective focal length 35x1.5 = 52.5mm) so your shutter speed needs to be around 1/50 - 1/60s of a second. sometimes you will need a faster shutter speed/can get away with a slower shutter speed but this seems to give a good idea of where to set your baseline thinking on where you shutter speed needs to be for handheld shots, especially in low light situations...

*edit* i should also add that this assumes what your photographing is static, it basically gives you an idea of the slowest shutter speed where camera shake shouldn't effect the image

 

[grizzlyboy]

Does anyone have a Samsung NX300? Thoughts?

Well I found a steal for one at $219. Loving it so far. This is going to be a great everyday camera.

 

[goste187]

Finally got someone to model for me while I played w/ off camera flash! Unfortunately she'd rather play tag than stay still...

 

[bigslim773]

Snapped this yesterday. Working on my focus skills now. I may have to invest in a remote for shots like this.

 

[robinvandamn]

finally realized i need to invest in a slider for my video work but i'm a broke boy right now..

probably gonna rock out with a ghetto rig for the next couple months

 

[tokes99]

finally realized i need to invest in a slider for my video work but i'm a broke boy right now..

probably gonna rock out with a ghetto rig for the next couple months

there are so many great diys for cheap sliders that if you have a decent video head on your tripod you could pull off some nice shots, this is one of the better ones as it a rathe simple assembly that only requires basic tools & no drilling:

 

[yallayalla]

to every full frame users..

when shooting at full frame with crop lenses, is it better to crop them when post processing or just use dx mode when using crop lens?

i use a 10.5 fisheye, which is'nt fx. like any other dx wide angle lenses, it results to having black rings around images when shooting at full frame.

disappointed to see the tokina 11-16 only good for dx cameras

 

[Fong$tarr]

^^^^I'd shoot DX mode rather than have the black circles. At least it fills up the whole frame and you'd be shooting at a 15mm that way. I wouldn't do it the other way around unless you wanted more distortion.

 

[ediaz411]

had a hard time getting the focus to lock on the fly

 

[bigslim773]

Snapped this today. Really pleased with it.

 

[khankussionz]

I think y'all thought I was pulling an April Fools... http://fstoppers.com/adobe-announces-mobiletablet-support-for-lightroom