The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

New bag just arrived - I got one a couple months ago but everything only just fits - and to do anything I had to basically empty it. This is way bigger and should be more than enough - I wanted one which I could attach my tripod to as well. It's the same brand as my new tripod which I'm really pleased with. Seems really solid and a good range of pockets and separators.

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I swear by my Billingham Hadley Small. Perfect size for a mirrorless setup with a couple of lenses, filters, and batteries.

Got this back a couple days ago. Shot on Ilford HP5, pretty happy with how it came out. 



Just developed my first roll of film at home too. Way easier than I was expecting.
 
Yeah peakdesign is pretty legit. They have solid straps and clips. I might get the sling. Looks perfect for my Sony a7 gear.
 
400





How do I get a shot like this or is this heavily edited?

it might be edited/processed in a way to exaggerate the silhouettes/shadows but all you would need to have a scene where the exposures for the background and foreground are different. in this case it looks like the photog set the focus on the subject(s) in the foreground but set the cameras exposure for the highlights/background...
 
So then I would focus in my subject but set my settings for the lighting based on the background? Low app/shutter speed/iso?
 
Thanks guys.


Is there a faster/more efficient/more customizable way to focus on certain things as opposed to just half clicking and hoping it catches what you want to focus on?
 
This thread is the msot helpful/mature thread out kf any thread ive been to on NT and ive been on thsinsite since 06-07. :lol: :smokin




Reps for all. One more question for the AM, any app where I can cut and paste people/objects to a different location? Kinda like layering in PS or whatever its called.
 
Thanks guys.


Is there a faster/more efficient/more customizable way to focus on certain things as opposed to just half clicking and hoping it catches what you want to focus on?

Manual or Zone Focusing

I'm totally obsessed with this at the moment - makes a huge difference to your shots - just focussing in the distance for a landscape isn't as good.

I really want the Nikkor 35mm prime which is great value but it doesn't have a scale - the 50 does but isn't as useful.

I got an app for my phone where you plug in the focal length and aperture and then it tells you the distance you should focus at - I've been either estimating that or pacing it out, focussing then putting my lens in manual and leaving it there. The only problem is fiddling with filters etc can knock it off a bit. Doesn't work in the dark either as you can't focus on anything.
 
Thanks guys.


Is there a faster/more efficient/more customizable way to focus on certain things as opposed to just half clicking and hoping it catches what you want to focus on?

i think customizing your camera to separate your AF from the shutter button, helps so that your camera isn't always attempting to find focus with every time you press the shutter...you could also change your AF to center weighted, but then you will likely have to focus and then move the camera/composition and hit the shutter which if you aren't fast enough you may miss the moment but it does help you tell the camera where to focus/look...
 
With landscapes too, I also use live view if you really want thinks tack sharp. Just shoot in live view, zoom in on your focus area and then manually adjust till it's clear. Sometimes when shooting even in f/22, you will get some soft areas depending on your subject matter. So some people shoot 2-3 photos and focus on all areas and then blend them altogether in photoshop to get one clear photo.
 
With landscapes too, I also use live view if you really want thinks tack sharp. Just shoot in live view, zoom in on your focus area and then manually adjust till it's clear. Sometimes when shooting even in f/22, you will get some soft areas depending on your subject matter. So some people shoot 2-3 photos and focus on all areas and then blend them altogether in photoshop to get one clear photo.

when shooting at f22, some of the softness is maybe due to diffraction...most lenses max sharpness is somewhere in the middle of its f-stop range, this is usually around f8-f11, not always of course and you get a little more leeway with full frame but you don't get much more sharpness across the frame by stopping down much more, unless the goal is to cut light I read it is best to avoid stopping down that far if max sharpness is important...

Single point, back button AF for me.

yes, I was blanking out on #technicalterm, back button focusing is so useful once you get the hang of it!!
 
^^^I actually was more or less talking about focus stacking. Some photos cause of the composition will not allow you to shoot everything in focus whether it be the foreground or background.

I shot this weeks back and I would have gotten a better sharpness if I did it. The details are really soft in the background than the foreground. Granted this is a web photo but the full res really shows in the loss of clarity.

golden-nd-1a.png


It's tedious work but if you are printing something, you will notice the effort in doing it.
 
The thing with battery grips is I found them heavy/bulky and I already don't like carrying a camera as is sometimes :lol:
Here's my arsenal as of right now

t3i
tamrom 17-50mm 2.8
55-250mm kit lens
430ex ii
(3) Yongnuo YN560-II
(3) Yongnuo Upgrade RF-603 II C1 Flash Trigger
DIY sliding camera strap
(3) batteries
64gb sandisk extreme pro

Extra:
White backdrop and stands
(2) Flash umbrella kit/stands
Panasonic eneloop batteries
Manfrotto MK294A3 Aluminum Tripod


I think that's it. Recommendations on cleaning kits if I can't find mine?

Also, lenses for crop sensors? As mentioned a while ago, looking into the sigma 30mm 1.4 but wondering what else after that.


ayeeeeee a fellow t3i shooter

looks like you mentioned you shoot with my primary lens. the cheap 50mm 1.8. yea its cramped. sometimes it doesn't focus and i miss a lot of shots. i always have to compose my shots to get anything good and candids are always hit or miss. to make sure i dont miss i always use live view and manual focus. always seemed best at f2.8

on that note sine i only always shoot at f2.8 on the 50mm, how is that tamron 17-50. im sure thats why you got it to resolve your issue with the 50mm being cramped and at least you have a wider scope at 17. i was looking at the tamron after you posted you were a t3i shooter. looks liek its a few hundred bucks lol. is it worth it? is that the one with VC? thtas their image stablization ya?

the thing with the 50 1.8, before i got it it was always praised as good for low light etc. but at 1.8 i never felt it to be that sharp and i never like shooting above 800 iso on our t3i, and without IS on the 50mm it was hard to get good shots ironically in low light hand held. is the tamron sharp wide open? im interested in a 17-50mm since ive gotten so use to shooting at 50mm and on our crop sensor thats like 80mm so its a "portrait lens" lol but i would like to be able to shoot wider so id ont have to take multiple lens. after that i prob get something even wider than 17mm. then i think im good until i brush up my skills and editing more.
 
Hope everyone is doing well.

Some recent pictures, ..I've also been working on a graff zine that should be done next month. Support from anyone would be appreciated if your into it, thanks


Black Grain by Benjamin F., on Flickr
N 4 N by Benjamin F., on Flickr

Untitled by Benjamin F., on Flickr

BJORK6 BOGUS VOYER by Benjamin F., on Flickr

MOE VOYER by Benjamin F., on Flickr

Untitled by Benjamin F., on Flickr


NORES by Benjamin F., on Flickr


NEHI KUTHE by Benjamin F., on Flickr

Untitled by Benjamin F., on Flickr


EVST by Benjamin F., on Flickr

Washington, D.C. GRAFFITI by Benjamin F., on Flickr
 
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