Any Golfers on NT?

When you say counter balanced, do you mean sticking a weight in the butt end of the shaft?

The 983k kicked my 905R out of the bag.  My 905R has a 73x Whiteboard (73g), playing length around 45 inches.  The X100 starts at 124g/46", and I had them butt trim to 43.5 inches.  I'm not sure how much weight it dropped with the trim, but I would guess maybe something like 8-12 grams?  You're right about the tempo...with lighter weight shafts, my swing feels much whippier, and I feel like I need to slow my swing down to have any semblance of control over the ball.  With the X100, I honestly feel like I can hammer the %*%@ out of the ball, and I have much more control, and when I slow down a little I just get a nice accurate and repeatable shot.

I know you'd expect to see some distance loss, but I honestly hit the 983K just as long as my 905R.  It's hard to tell carry distance vs. roll out on my course with the hills, but on the same hole, hitting each club, I can get to just about the same spot with the 983k, the 905R, and my 904F (13 degree, YS-7+ FW, X flex, 85 g?).

On the flattest hole I can think of (460 yard par 4, elevated tee box), I put the 983k to 135 yards yesterday, dead center of the fairway.  I can get the 905R to that distance, but it's never as accurate.

I've had some of my farthest drives with the Whiteboard, but I'm not concerned with occasionally putting it out there 300+, I want to consistently get it between 260-280 yards and in the fairway.  I've probably tracked stats in about 10 rounds, and my driving accuracy is only 59.8% split between teeing off with the 904F or the 905R.  
 
Originally Posted by eaalto


When you say counter balanced, do you mean sticking a weight in the butt end of the shaft?

The 983k kicked my 905R out of the bag.  My 905R has a 73x Whiteboard (73g), playing length around 45 inches.  The X100 starts at 124g/46", and I had them butt trim to 43.5 inches.  I'm not sure how much weight it dropped with the trim, but I would guess maybe something like 8-12 grams?  You're right about the tempo...with lighter weight shafts, my swing feels much whippier, and I feel like I need to slow my swing down to have any semblance of control over the ball.  With the X100, I honestly feel like I can hammer the %*%@ out of the ball, and I have much more control, and when I slow down a little I just get a nice accurate and repeatable shot.

I know you'd expect to see some distance loss, but I honestly hit the 983K just as long as my 905R.  It's hard to tell carry distance vs. roll out on my course with the hills, but on the same hole, hitting each club, I can get to just about the same spot with the 983k, the 905R, and my 904F (13 degree, YS-7+ FW, X flex, 85 g?).

On the flattest hole I can think of (460 yard par 4, elevated tee box), I put the 983k to 135 yards yesterday, dead center of the fairway.  I can get the 905R to that distance, but it's never as accurate.

I've had some of my farthest drives with the Whiteboard, but I'm not concerned with occasionally putting it out there 300+, I want to consistently get it between 260-280 yards and in the fairway.  I've probably tracked stats in about 10 rounds, and my driving accuracy is only 59.8% split between teeing off with the 904F or the 905R.  

yeah counterbalance will put weight on the butt end which might help your static weight and feel. how long was ur 905r with the whiteboard? you might have more of a swingweight problem then a shaft problem. the 983k is a great driver dont get me wrong. but i'm only referencing newer drivers because the 983k has a small sweet spot. also to keep in mind, the 905r is pretty high spin. i dont know what happened with titleist but the 905 / 907d2 / 909 have been quite high spin heads. even the 910 is fairly high spin in comparison to the other current market drivers. the 983k was relatively low spin. drivers are an expensive toy. ive spent almost 7k this year alone so i understand hesitancy. i'd look into the ft-tour with the whiteboard (not cb), axivcore red (counterbalanced) or an oban devo 7 (not cb) as a starting point. or the tm superdeep.
 
Hey kobetw0 have you ever hit the Yonex EZONE 380? Wondering since it is a smaller head(380cc) if it has a bigger sweet spot than the 983k. It looks like it has a deeper face which I like and was thinking of actually picking up a 9* head from tourspecgolf and getting fit for a shaft over the winter but that is quite a bit to drop on a head that I have never hit. I love the way it looks from the top though and like that it is a smaller head.
 
i have not touched the ezone. i havent seen a jdm driver in about 3 years to be honest and frankly i see no real need to. i feel that jdm products are more quality vs technological advantage in golf. jdm = craftsmanship, usm = technologically forward when it comes to golf equipment. now, i feel that craftsmanship is important in a putter, wedge, and iron and would be very well leaning towards jdm products in those categories (although i dont game any currently, i have tested and played them). however, when it comes to driver where distance is the pure importance, ill go us made. jdm puts their technology in the shafts, not driver design. the rest of their equipment i feel is craftsmanship.
 
Originally Posted by k0betw0

Originally Posted by eaalto


When you say counter balanced, do you mean sticking a weight in the butt end of the shaft?

The 983k kicked my 905R out of the bag.  My 905R has a 73x Whiteboard (73g), playing length around 45 inches.  The X100 starts at 124g/46", and I had them butt trim to 43.5 inches.  I'm not sure how much weight it dropped with the trim, but I would guess maybe something like 8-12 grams?  You're right about the tempo...with lighter weight shafts, my swing feels much whippier, and I feel like I need to slow my swing down to have any semblance of control over the ball.  With the X100, I honestly feel like I can hammer the %*%@ out of the ball, and I have much more control, and when I slow down a little I just get a nice accurate and repeatable shot.

I know you'd expect to see some distance loss, but I honestly hit the 983K just as long as my 905R.  It's hard to tell carry distance vs. roll out on my course with the hills, but on the same hole, hitting each club, I can get to just about the same spot with the 983k, the 905R, and my 904F (13 degree, YS-7+ FW, X flex, 85 g?).

On the flattest hole I can think of (460 yard par 4, elevated tee box), I put the 983k to 135 yards yesterday, dead center of the fairway.  I can get the 905R to that distance, but it's never as accurate.

I've had some of my farthest drives with the Whiteboard, but I'm not concerned with occasionally putting it out there 300+, I want to consistently get it between 260-280 yards and in the fairway.  I've probably tracked stats in about 10 rounds, and my driving accuracy is only 59.8% split between teeing off with the 904F or the 905R.  

yeah counterbalance will put weight on the butt end which might help your static weight and feel. how long was ur 905r with the whiteboard? you might have more of a swingweight problem then a shaft problem. the 983k is a great driver dont get me wrong. but i'm only referencing newer drivers because the 983k has a small sweet spot. also to keep in mind, the 905r is pretty high spin. i dont know what happened with titleist but the 905 / 907d2 / 909 have been quite high spin heads. even the 910 is fairly high spin in comparison to the other current market drivers. the 983k was relatively low spin. drivers are an expensive toy. ive spent almost 7k this year alone so i understand hesitancy. i'd look into the ft-tour with the whiteboard (not cb), axivcore red (counterbalanced) or an oban devo 7 (not cb) as a starting point. or the tm superdeep.
My 905R is 45" playing length.  Are all those heads that you recommended similar in size (365cc) to the 983k?  I really prefer deeper faced drivers...I don't mind a 460cc head, but I do prefer the pear shape with a deep face.  The 905R is about as shallow faced as I would prefer to go.

If you can recommend some modern heads with huge sweet spots and 365cc deep faced, let me know.  I won't be dropping serious money on a driver any time soon, though.
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Shot an illegitimate 77 today (3 mulligans on tee shots) with all steel in the bag.
Do most of you keep "real" and honest score when you play by yourself and/or with friends (not when betting or tournament play)?
 
Im always trying to keep mulligans out of my round but dudes I play with are always begging for at least 1 per 9 holes.
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*Friend hits shot into the woods on the 2nd hole* " Sooooo 1 mulligan on the front and one on the back??"

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Originally Posted by eaalto

kobe, are you talking about the R9 superdeep?

yes. i am talking about the r9 superdeep.

and to answer your other question: i havent played a mulligan in the last 6 years.... if im playing for money, my buddies and i dont even have gimmes. its 1" away from the hole, put it in.
 
When I play with friends I always keep a second scorecard with my legitimate score cause they are always taking mulligans. When I play on a good course I always keep a legit score but every once in a while on my regular course I will have a few rounds where I basically play 2 ball and keep a score but don't count hazards. Going to hit a course up tomorrow that has taken my lunch in the past, hopefully get in 18 after work but if pace is slow might only make it 9. Might stop and finally pick up some new wedges after using a 54* .588 I took from a friends bag he wasn't using and a 60* TM RAC wedge. Thinking of picking up the Mizuno MPR-12 in 52* and 56*, might just get one though since I am not sure how I will like the spinner shaft. heard it is great on short game but on long shots it is kind of short, and I need my gap wedge to be hitting in the 115 range for a full shot.

Also tested out the steel shafted 983k yesterday at the range.  While it had tighter dispersion I definitely was losing a bit of distance but I think some of that was from the 10.5* head the ball was going quite a bit higher than I would like.  Probably keep it on deck for when I am struggling with my regular driver.  Good thing though I was hitting the 9.5* 985k on the screws almost every hit, hit several out around 275-280 in the air and with how dry it has been here that would give me quite a bit of roll, now hopefully that translates over the the course tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted by k0betw0

Originally Posted by eaalto

kobe, are you talking about the R9 superdeep?

yes. i am talking about the r9 superdeep.

and to answer your other question: i havent played a mulligan in the last 6 years.... if im playing for money, my buddies and i dont even have gimmes. its 1" away from the hole, put it in.
What shafts do you recommend with that head, and will I have to do the counter balancing myself?  I'm not a big fan of Callaway clubs so if I opted for and of your suggestions I would probably lean toward the Taylormade.  I really liked the R7 Superquad.
 
Originally Posted by airblaster503

Also tested out the steel shafted 983k yesterday at the range.  While it had tighter dispersion I definitely was losing a bit of distance but I think some of that was from the 10.5* head the ball was going quite a bit higher than I would like.  Probably keep it on deck for when I am struggling with my regular driver.  Good thing though I was hitting the 9.5* 985k on the screws almost every hit, hit several out around 275-280 in the air and with how dry it has been here that would give me quite a bit of roll, now hopefully that translates over the the course tomorrow.

I would be curious to play the 10.5* head.  I had some really good strokes today with mine...my par 5s are short, (all around 490-510 from the blues), and I put it to 165 on two of four.  I tee the ball to about where the top of the ball sits level with the top of the club.  If I tee too low the ball doesn't get up in the air much, but it still gets a fair amount of roll out (~225 yards?).  I rarely sky the ball, as I am not comfortable with teeing the ball up high.  I will sky it if I hit it fat.  I hate to do it, but I will probably check out some new drivers, but I really only want to pull the trigger if I can find one with a halfway decent shaft in it, for a really good price.  
 
^^ yeah I don't tee the ball up very high either, have the equator of the ball basically level with the top of the club head, but I don't let the club sit on the ground at address(something that mentally helps my tempo). I have been debating buying a new driver, I have to think that if I got fit with the right head and right shaft I could see a pretty good improvement as far as consistency but I hit the 983k so good most of the time I go back and forth justifying dropping several hundred on a new one. I really need new irons though anyways so I will probably break down and buy some this winter before I look for a new driver. Hopefully the Mizuno MP-53s and 63s go on sale before next season or the Bridgestone irons.
 
I would love new irons...Mizuno MPs would be amazing.  I currently play older Titleists, 704.CB, and I also have an old set of Mizuno MX-15s, which actually feel pretty nice for being nearly 10 years old, and cast.  
I've considered splurging on a set of BeCu Ping Eye 2s, because I like they way I hit them, and they hold their value so well (20+ years old and still going for $500).
 
Beginner here, what are some good drivers and fairway woods to get that are forgiving and easy to hit. I already have a set of irons (4-pw) and wedges (sw and lob) along with a putter that I got from my friends. I just need to get my own driver and wood. Another question, do I need to get a hybrid and if so what's a good brand? Any help is appreciated.
 
You don't "need" a hybrid, but sometimes it's a nice club to have in the bag.  You're basically interested in covering yardage gaps between clubs.
My yardage gaps:

4 iron: 210-200

5 iron: 200-190

6 iron: 185-180

7 iron: 175-165

8 iron: 160-155

9 iron: 145-140

P: 125-115

G: 115-100

S: 100-80

L: 70-55

If I carry a 3 iron, I can put it out there anywhere between 225-215, but I almost always draw or pull hook it.  4 iron is typically the longest iron in my bag.  I have a 19 degree hybrid (2i/5w), and on well struck balls I can put it anywhere between 245-230 yards, but it also has a pull tendency (I do), and I find it to be less accurate than my irons.  Throw a driver in the mix, 300-240, 3 wood, 280-230, 5 wood, 250-220.  The regulation limit for clubs is 14 (I struggle to stay beneath this limit).  

So ultimately, to determine your need for a hybrid depends on how far you hit your irons, and how big of a yardage gap you have between you driver/wood off the tee, and your approach club.  If you find that you can't hit a driver/wood as a beginner, maybe a hybrid would be easier for you, but the game of golf is interesting in that you can be a long bomber and have no short game, and get worked by old men that never hit the green in less than 3, but are so razor sharp in their short game that they get up and down 75% of the time.  Moral of the story is - focus on your irons/short game, and you should be just fine.

Your road toward getting good drivers and fairway woods can be long and costly, so hit up the used club section at a Golfsmith, but I guess for beginning FW you'd want something with a shallower face and a wider sweet spot, and you could probably apply that criteria to your driver as well.  I played something like that until I got tired of the trajectory, so I went to a deeper faced club.  
 
Can anyone recommend me good golf shops on las Vegas? Like a Roger dunn shop (there's none in Vegas.. Checked already)I lost my pitching wedge and look for another one..
 
Thanks for the tips, I guess I should focus on hitting my irons and putters first before worrying about getting a driver. I don't really know my yardage for each iron but I think I understand what you are saying about whether or not I need a hybrid. The hardest part is that I can never hit the ball consistently.
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 Looks like I have a lot to work on.  
 
Anybody here from the Bay Area ever played Willow Park in Castro Valley? If you have, what's it like?


My favorite courses in the East Bay:

Lake Chabot - best price!
Monarch Bay San Leandro
Boundary Oaks Walnut Creek
Tilden Park
 
Originally Posted by cornzilla

Thanks for the tips, I guess I should focus on hitting my irons and putters first before worrying about getting a driver. I don't really know my yardage for each iron but I think I understand what you are saying about whether or not I need a hybrid. The hardest part is that I can never hit the ball consistently.
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 Looks like I have a lot to work on.  

You'll get there, it really just takes time and practice, and you could probably benefit from a lesson here or there.  I personally have never taken a lesson, and that has probably hindered me more than I would like to admit.  Reading golf magazines helps too, because you can pick up tips here and there.  
When I first started golfing, I had a 5 iron, a 7 iron, and a putter.  My first round was a 59 on a par 27 (par 3) course.  I have shot even par once on a 9 hole course (par 30), and my low 18 hole score (no mulligans) is an 81 (+9).  I've had 4 eagles in all my rounds of golf, and come within inches of a hole in one (not recently).  I probably average about one birdie a round, or maybe one every other round.  I had 2 on the back nine yesterday, should have been 3 but I left my putt an inch short. 

I honestly didn't start using a driver until a few years ago, and when I started it really hurt my game because I was used to the accuracy of my 3 wood off of the tee, and I had to adjust and practice practice practice until I could play it with some degree of consistency.  The real turning point of my game was when I stopped using my stock P wedge and bought some wedges.  My short game improved exponentially, and now I carry 4 or 5 wedges in my bag.  (48, 53, 56, 60).

I bought two books from Dave Pelz - The Short Game Bible and The Putting Bible.  I never really read them in full, but I have picked through them from time to time for suggestions and drills.

Getting your first birdie is a great feeling, getting your first eagle is even better.  I can't imagine how I would feel after my first hole in one.
 
Only had time for 9 today, shot a 3+ 39
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and felt like I left a few out there. Had 2 doubles and each of those I lost a ball, took 3 wood off the tee on one and pulled it in the woods when a 2 wood would have been fine then got greedy on a par 5 and hit a 3 wood that landed short of the green in water. Finished birdie birdie though after another bogey. Hopefully get in 18 on Monday or Tuesday if it isn't raining.
 
Planning a trip to golfsmith tomorrow when I get off work, will checkout the Super Deep and probably get some Z Stars so I can get the free hat 
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Been up and down lately...77, 98, 82...2 of those rounds had mulligans, I just couldn't help it.  The 98 had a ton of lost balls 
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Went to GolfSmith today and got fitted for the Mizuno JPX800 and they should be here by the end of the month.

Can't wait!!!
 
Played Dublin Ranch (CA) a couple of weeks back with some co-workers...not a bad course. I suck, so I apologize to anyone's house I hit.
 
Played Hartford Golf Club on Tuesday. One of the nicest courses in CT.

Amazing course, great shape even this late in the fall.

Doesn't play hard at all, kinda short. Great experience with the crew tho.
 
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