Any Golfers on NT?

After looking for new clubs... I went ahead and purchased the new Nike Blades... and they are AMAZING.
I played 3 consecutive days at robinson ranch and shot 73-75-73.
By far the best clubs I have played with.
I feel that with these clubs you have absolute control of what you want to do with your shot. From a low to a high shot, or just fading your shots, these clubs did it for me.
 
Shot a 91 today...my bout of the shanks are more or less done. I did shank twice today, but I knew why I did it.
 
Haven't posted on here since my tournament. Basically my team was pretty bad. We had to take 3 drives from each player and 2 of the guys couldn't hit it more than 150 and they were wild, plus we were playing from the back tee's on a 7100 yard course. Think we finished either 3 or 4 under while the winning team was about 14 under. Got to the point we would take the crappy players drives no matter what on par 5s since they were nearly unreachable in 2 anyways. About halfway through the round I was just said screw it and started drinking heavily, stopped at my buddies parents house and they were giving away shots to all the players. If I was playing on my own though I would have shot probably about 10 over, won closest to the pin on a 148 yard par 3, hit a 8 iron to 6 ft. Have only played once though since and that was 3 weeks ago, might go out for 18 tomorrow afternoon and see how my game is without practice.
 
Just have to show you guys a golf bag I had designed for me.  This is a all-leather carry bag done by my friends company - Mckennon Golf Bags.  They do it old school - hand cut, hand stitched with a lifetime warranty (if ANYTHING EVER breaks they will fix it). I believe the full set - 3 head covers + custom bag runs about $1200.....This thing carries like a dream, very comfy.  They can do nearly any color combo or selection of leather they have and will embroider a logo or stitch your name (even swear words on the inside pockets lol), whatever you want  - completely custom.    In real life it isn't as bright as this pic (that is w/ flash) but you get the idea. Leather is imported from Austria.  Almost made a Laker color bag, which would of been crazy.    PM me if you have any questions or are interested and I can help you out....these are very high quality bags that will last you a lifetime. 

ke886zmj:tw1
 
I'm hooking the +++$ out of the 3w right now, and can't hit it off the deck very consistently...

What 3w are easy to hit off the deck and don't have a closed face at address?
 
Originally Posted by pootaing

I'm hooking the +++$ out of the 3w right now, and can't hit it off the deck very consistently...

What 3w are easy to hit off the deck and don't have a closed face at address?
Aim right and/or open the face.  I struggled on the front nine today because I was pulling everything to the left.  Aimed at the pin, I would end up about 10-15 yards left of target with my short irons.  Off the tee was the same story.  I posted an 11 on a par 5 because I put 2 shots OB and literally hugged the left side of the fairway the entire way down.  Finally got on the green after 9 shots.  I adjusted on the back nine by simply aiming wide right on most shots, and I would end up coming in line with my target.  It ends up looking like a draw, but I feel like it's more of a pull hook.

What I noticed may have been causing it was misalignment at address.  If you play your right foot back in your stance (closed stance), your body mechanics exaggerate an in-out swing path that puts a counter clockwise spin on the ball.  Playing your left foot back in your stance (open stance), your body mechanics exaggerate an out-in swing path and put a clockwise spin on the ball.  Having a closed/open club face at impact will also impact the overall flight/directionality of the ball, but with a square face at contact, those alignments are easy ways to play a draw or a fade.  Hypothetically, having a perfectly aligned stance and squared face at impact will yield a straight ball flight. 

It's usually not the club that is causing your issues, it's your swing.  To test, go to the driving range and play your stance open, and tell me if you still hook the ball with your 3 wood.  

  
 
Originally Posted by eaalto

Originally Posted by pootaing

I'm hooking the +++$ out of the 3w right now, and can't hit it off the deck very consistently...

What 3w are easy to hit off the deck and don't have a closed face at address?
Aim right and/or open the face.  I struggled on the front nine today because I was pulling everything to the left.  Aimed at the pin, I would end up about 10-15 yards left of target with my short irons.  Off the tee was the same story.  I posted an 11 on a par 5 because I put 2 shots OB and literally hugged the left side of the fairway the entire way down.  Finally got on the green after 9 shots.  I adjusted on the back nine by simply aiming wide right on most shots, and I would end up coming in line with my target.  It ends up looking like a draw, but I feel like it's more of a pull hook.

What I noticed may have been causing it was misalignment at address.  If you play your right foot back in your stance (closed stance), your body mechanics exaggerate an in-out swing path that puts a counter clockwise spin on the ball.  Playing your left foot back in your stance (open stance), your body mechanics exaggerate an out-in swing path and put a clockwise spin on the ball.  Having a closed/open club face at impact will also impact the overall flight/directionality of the ball, but with a square face at contact, those alignments are easy ways to play a draw or a fade.  Hypothetically, having a perfectly aligned stance and squared face at impact will yield a straight ball flight. 

It's usually not the club that is causing your issues, it's your swing.  To test, go to the driving range and play your stance open, and tell me if you still hook the ball with your 3 wood.  

  
This came into consideration as well, but i hit every other club in the bag with a baby draw rather than hooks. I'm not sure if im getting handsy with my 3w, but i dont have this problem with any other club.

FYI, my 3w is a ping i15 with a proforce v2 green..would an overly stiff shaft cause hooks? Sometimes i feel as if the shaft is a bit boardy compared to what i hit in my driver
 
Normally a soft shaft will result in hooks. I think it might definitely be the shaft especially since the i15 sits open at address. Maybe try a shaft that has a mid/high trajectory instead of the low trajectory of the v2 green. Superfast 2.0 tp though is way more fade bias than the i15, I have been debating picking one up for the longest time because of that since I always hook my 3 wood. If you are looking to get a new 3wood I would definitely recommend that be your first demo, and go to a place that has all the shafts they offer for the TP model, almost all at no additional cost.
 
If you guys need some golf clothes/shoes, check your local DSG/Golf Galaxy, 50% off clearance apparel/shoes, not sure how long its running for but some great deals out there!
 
A stiffer shaft may make it more difficult for you to square the face at address, but I can't picture it being an issue of having a closed face at impact, I would expect it to leave the face open. It could be an issue of kick point with your shaft. A low kick point will be tip soft, and the whipping effect will be more pronounced. A mid-high kick point will be tip stiff, and the whipping effect will be less pronounced.

I hit the same club differently from day to day, so I know it's my swing and not the club. I play a YS-7+ FW X Stiff in my 904F 3 wood (85 g?), and sometimes I hit it dead nut straight, sometimes I draw it, and sometimes it's a definite hook (open club face, but the ball plays a STRONG draw). I hit the club as far as my driver.

I also have a 904F 19 degree with a S300 and I can't hit anything but a draw with it...so a heavier shaft could lead to heel weighting, especially on clubs that are bore through, which affects the draw bias. You could always put some lead weight on the toe to help counteract?
 
anyone play an r11 driver?

i have a diablo edge r flex that clearly cannot handle my 107 mph ss anymore. i balloon it or hook, way too much spin, launches too... it was good when i was a beginner and having trouble getting the ball in the air, but not anymore...

looking at getting an r11 with a rip alpha or ahina, any thoughts?

fyi my current driver set up is 11* stock habanero shaft.
 
Originally Posted by reigndrop

anyone play an r11 driver?

i have a diablo edge r flex that clearly cannot handle my 107 mph ss anymore. i balloon it or hook, way too much spin, launches too... it was good when i was a beginner and having trouble getting the ball in the air, but not anymore...

looking at getting an r11 with a rip alpha or ahina, any thoughts?

fyi my current driver set up is 11* stock habanero shaft.
not worth it.... r11's head is heavy so you better buy a weight kit and put the r11 on a diet.... also the r11 is DEEEEEEEEEEP if you hit it right in the center of the face. missing even by 1/2" from the sweet spot, the ball sounds hot, looks like a great flight, but it mysteriously loses distance.... like 15 yards difference. great driver but you have to hit it perfect.... believe me, that was driver 4, 5 and 7 for me this year....
 
Originally Posted by reigndrop

anyone play an r11 driver?

i have a diablo edge r flex that clearly cannot handle my 107 mph ss anymore. i balloon it or hook, way too much spin, launches too... it was good when i was a beginner and having trouble getting the ball in the air, but not anymore...

looking at getting an r11 with a rip alpha or ahina, any thoughts?

fyi my current driver set up is 11* stock habanero shaft.
Just hit up the used driver bin at your local golf store...The R11 isn't going to drastically out perform any recent offering from any manufacturer over the last 5 years.  And kobe is right...the head is heavy as @**$.  It's a nice driver, don't get me wrong, but it will be old news once the next "hot new driver" comes out next season.  I don't hit it any longer than my 5 year old driver, food for thought.
 
Any help, advice, or tips is greatly appreciated...

So whenever I'm within 50 yards I have this really annoying problem of hitting the ball left of the target. I set up with my shoulders, hips, and feet towards my target (or so I feel that way), club face to the target as well, make good contact, but for some damn reason the ball keeps flying way left of where I intended it to go. I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. Thanks in advance.
 
airblaster, I have brought the steel shafted 983k out of retirement
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For %*@$# and giggles I brought it with me to the course today, and was hitting bombs with it on the range, so I played it all 18 and I didn't lose a single ball.  It was straight and accurate, sometimes a draw, sometimes a push, but really consistent and not too wild.  Had a few 300+ yard straight bombs.  Go find one on the cheap and experiment a little.
 
I actually picked up a extra 983k at golfsmith a week or so ago and am going to put a x100 sensicore in it. Thinking of going about 43" to play the length of a 3 wood. The other one with the YS-6 though has been a little squirrley the 2 times I played this week, not putting me to far off the fwy but not putting me in the center like it was either. Going to drop off the extra at my golf shop today and hopefully be able to try out the steel shaft at the range on Tuesday or so.

Going back to the course I developed the shanks at earlier this year for the first time since on Wednesday for another crack at and need to find a driver that has more accuracy since there is alot of hazards on the course.
 
Cool, let me know how it works out for you.  I had mine trimmed to 43.5", should be the same exact shaft.  Only steel shaft I could find in .335 tip..
 
Thinking about taking all graphite out of my bag and just playing a set up with all steel shafts.

983k 9.5 degree with X100
904f 19 degree with S300
3 - 9 Irons with S300
Wedges with DG Wedge Flex? (same stiffness as S300?)

I could leave a graphite shafted 3 wood or hybrid in there, but I'm starting to really like the feel of steel....
 
Originally Posted by gatorb807

Any of you all own rangefinders?

Thinking about getting a Nikon/Callaway one

dont bother with nikon / callaway. my suggestion is to get a leupold or a bushnell one.
 
Originally Posted by eaalto

Thinking about taking all graphite out of my bag and just playing a set up with all steel shafts.

983k 9.5 degree with X100
904f 19 degree with S300
3 - 9 Irons with S300
Wedges with DG Wedge Flex? (same stiffness as S300?)

I could leave a graphite shafted 3 wood or hybrid in there, but I'm starting to really like the feel of steel....

dynamic gold wedge flex is actually dynamic gold s200. lighter weight than s300 so it plays just a shade softer...

as for the fairway wood being steel, it's kinda borderline in my experience. the idea is obviously a heavier shaft to transition from the length of the driver to the irons. i'd suggest you that if you stayed with steel in the fairway woods to look at the kbs high launch shafts or something that has a higher ball flight. BUT I WOULD STRONGLY STRONGLY STRONGLY go with a heavy graphite. same idea with your 3 wood and hybrids.....

as for the driver, i seriously think you're leaving a lot on the table with the stell shafted 983k driver. this isnt to say the 983 isnt a good driver nor is a steel shaft a good idea. but i think you like the 983 due to its size and shape. i'd look into a smaller headed driver thats more pear shaped (vr tour, vr pro limited, 910 d2) if you like the smaller shape. but the real reason why i bring up drivers is the steel shaft. i think you like the steel shaft due to the feel of how it loads on your downswing. the heavier weight definitely helps even out your temp but you are losing quite a bit of speed with it. also you have the x100 in it and the rest of your clubs are s300. typically if you go with a longer shaft you stay the same in flex or if you go up in weight (80 / 90 / 100g) shafts you almost reduce the flex to allow for easier load and release of the shaft. id look into some heavy weight (70g) counter balanced shaft for a graphite if you get a few bucks to spend. even in a 983k head you would probably be pleasantly surprised in the ball speed improvements.
 
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