:::OFFICIAL SNEAKER CARE/MAINTENANCE POST::: (It's back!)

I've used it on 4 different pairs and no problems yet. Nothing is perfect unfortunately
 
I Used 40 Volume Creme Developer only no oxy
the developer is higher % peroxide, and adding oxy increases the % of peroxide therefore aiding in the deoxidation of the soles so use them both for better results just be careful with that amount of peroxide cuz its not good for you at all.
 





Anyone please help!!!!!


Recently i try to repaint my AJ4 bred, but when i using a nail color remover to remove the paint my mid sole surface be rough . TOT


May i know anyone know how to fix it?! Please !!!!!

next time you remove your old paint try this method


as far as the pair above try sanding the midsole with a high grit sandpaper like 1000 to get it smooth before you repaint it
 
I always scrape the midsoles with a knife/file, then I only use alcohol to smooth it out and clean off any oils/dirt so the paint adheres better. I've tried just wiping the midsoles down with acetone, but it leaves a film of old paint on the midsoles which I don't like.
 
next time you remove your old paint try this method


as far as the pair above try sanding the midsole with a high grit sandpaper like 1000 to get it smooth before you repaint it



Thanks but sand paper work on it? Because the mid sold are abit soft like rubber
 
I always scrape the midsoles with a knife/file, then I only use alcohol to smooth it out and clean off any oils/dirt so the paint adheres better. I've tried just wiping the midsoles down with acetone, but it leaves a film of old paint on the midsoles which I don't like.
Will it better if just use knife to deal with it? Because in the first I was using knife it work find but I found out the paint was wrong, so I removed it using nail color remover .. And it become like this after apply
 
Sand paper always works well .. I have painted over 15 of my shoes and did tried kife , acetone Knife can scratch the midsole and get some deep scratches.. 1000 grit sandpaper works well plus it smoothens out the midsole... Exacto knife also not advisable due to it being too sharp and if your not careful you can take a chunk out of your midsole...
 
always use the least invasive approach first and move down the line until you figure it out, heck you might find a better way if you try yourself. dont be afraid to try new things but make sure it doesnt have harsh chemicals or sharp edges that can damage the look and performance of the shoe.
 
I have to come back in here and go through the thread. Been so lazy, but I have a LOT of regluing to do on quite a few pairs. I'm torn between E6000 and Barge Cement. I like how Barge cement has an applicator where you can spread it out evenly on the surface. E6000 is good too, I spot tested it on my midnight navy VI's (even though I recommend against doing this) and it's held pretty ok on the toecap. I still have to clean the tongue, upper, and do a midsole repaint on those. 
 
I have to come back in here and go through the thread. Been so lazy, but I have a LOT of regluing to do on quite a few pairs. I'm torn between E6000 and Barge Cement. I like how Barge cement has an applicator where you can spread it out evenly on the surface. E6000 is good too, I spot tested it on my midnight navy VI's (even though I recommend against doing this) and it's held pretty ok on the toecap. I still have to clean the tongue, upper, and do a midsole repaint on those. 


are you doing full reglue of just spots? i would go with Bage but you gotta use it correctly or it wont work as well. I found out the correct way to use it ill post the info in her as soon as i find it
 
 
I have to come back in here and go through the thread. Been so lazy, but I have a LOT of regluing to do on quite a few pairs. I'm torn between E6000 and Barge Cement. I like how Barge cement has an applicator where you can spread it out evenly on the surface. E6000 is good too, I spot tested it on my midnight navy VI's (even though I recommend against doing this) and it's held pretty ok on the toecap. I still have to clean the tongue, upper, and do a midsole repaint on those. 

are you doing full reglue of just spots? i would go with Bage but you gotta use it correctly or it wont work as well. I found out the correct way to use it ill post the info in her as soon as i find it
Aight cool. Full reglue for some, and spots for others. 
 
Hi just require some expert advice on some Leather paint crack and peeling issues, i have posted pics of the area I would like to restore anyone have the know how or leads to fixing this problem. Thanks in advance!
 
Hi just require some expert advice on some Leather paint crack and peeling issues, i have posted pics of the area I would like to restore anyone have the know how or leads to fixing this problem. Thanks in advance!






There isn't much you can do for leather cracking aside from repainting it. I think you could mix some yellow with angelus white and make it match.
 
 
Hi just require some expert advice on some Leather paint crack and peeling issues, i have posted pics of the area I would like to restore anyone have the know how or leads to fixing this problem. Thanks in advance!
To whiten leather, not clean, but whiten:



Repaint the cracking leather to blend it in the shoe: (can use a brush or the cotton swab as stated in the vid)

 
So I got my Spizike order and unfortunately this happened during shipping I believe.
So my question is this
What is the best paint to use to fix it, is it going to be tough to match and will I have to repaint the whole red portion?
I can still send back to Nike for a refund, or eBay them or fix them.
Any expert advice is welcomed. Thanks.
400
 
So I got my Spizike order and unfortunately this happened during shipping I believe.
So my question is this
What is the best paint to use to fix it, is it going to be tough to match and will I have to repaint the whole red portion?
I can still send back to Nike for a refund, or eBay them or fix them.
Any expert advice is welcomed. Thanks.
400
That would be very hard to match, you probably wouldn't be happy with it.. I would either return them or stick them on ebay. I think nike will give you a coupon for 20% off of your next purchase is you return them.
 
I was afraid to hear that but I pretty much knew that.... Sucks when this happens. I was thinking eBay because someone out there may not care and wear them, nike will probably trash them?
I'll debate this, thanks for the info
 
I was afraid to hear that but I pretty much knew that.... Sucks when this happens. I was thinking eBay because someone out there may not care and wear them, nike will probably trash them?
I'll debate this, thanks for the info
Nike would probably send them to an outlet.
 
I was afraid to hear that but I pretty much knew that.... Sucks when this happens. I was thinking eBay because someone out there may not care and wear them, nike will probably trash them?
I'll debate this, thanks for the info


Angelus sells Varsity Red paint should be the same if not very close. but like someone said call Nike see if you can a discount code.


Aight cool. Full reglue for some, and spots for others. 

taken from a cobblers website

"On to the discussion. I have had a deal of success with Vibram/rubber to leather with good results. I use Barge AP exclusively. Now the way I was taught and adhere to is you must reduce your cement 1/3 with thinner then rough up both pieces to be bonded. With a squirt bottle of thinner wash down the rubber and before it has a chance to dry swab on a thin coat of cement (thin!) If done properly when completly dry you will notice crystals will have formed looks weird. Do the same with the leather. Continue to use the 1/3rd cement and apply 3 thin coats stacking your glue. Letting each dry completely. It was explained after much expirementation that when you wash with thinner and apply that first prep. coat it enables the glue to get right into the pores of the rubber/material to be bonded. Once dry I attatch and hammer the snot out of them have no press either. Use my tusty rubber dead blow hammer either 2 or 4 pounder. I do like to let them sit for 24 to 48 hours before sanding them to avoid the smiles. I do practice reducing my cement 1/3 in my bootmaking as I really do get a superior bond. And I always stack the glue with 3 thin coats, hassle, I know but it makes for a almost indestructible bond. A side note on the crystals the rubber won't be completely covered they will be scattered about. Hopes this helps I do this quite often with Vibram and crepe soles to leather
 
My Baron Air Jordan 1s are creased to hell on the toebox and the paint is chipping.

I don't know how to solve the toe box problem, but would Angelus white be a good color to use?
 
My Baron Air Jordan 1s are creased to hell on the toebox and the paint is chipping.

I don't know how to solve the toe box problem, but would Angelus white be a good color to use?
The leather is chipping? Never seen a new shoe do that. Yes, angelus white is the right color to use
 
The leather is chipping? Never seen a new shoe do that. Yes, angelus white is the right color to use
I guess chipping was a poor choice of words, its still there for the most part, just looks bad in the back and on the sides. Would you know how to clean the grey back part of the shoe by any chance?
 
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