\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

What am I reading

People are relying on friction to stop the car? That force, which can be displayed as a vector does close to nothing to stop your car compared to quality pads, rotors, calipers, lines and fluid. It literally means nothing, if anything the force of the weight of your car that is being applied vertically as opposed to horizontally (friction and velocity, although friction's normal force is vertical as well so you do have some vertical resistance depending on the slope of the road you're traveling on) will help stop the car more than friction on regular pavement will. When brakes are applied and your car's depicted vector force (the force of the body/your car in motion) instantly surpasses that friction force, what will happen is you will either slide or tip over. That's all there is to it. However, if you have an extremely well engineered brake system, traveling in a road with a high coefficient of friction, using tires that add on to that coefficient of friction those brakes will perform phenomenally.

If you're doing 220mph in the snow and slam on your $10,000 brakes, it won't mean a damn thing. I typed that slow this time.
 
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CoolGrayMemo said:
I had a Brembo BBK on last car. They didn't help when I rear-ended the SUV in front of me. But that's probably because I didn't even touch the brake pedal.
Click to expand...

Even if you slammed on your brakes, and you had **** tires on a very smooth road, depending on the distance between you and the SUV prior to pressing on the brakes you might have still hit it.

This why in transportation engineering, stopping distance or stopping sight distance is a very important topic, as it allows Civil/Traffic engineers to design highways and roadways accordingly. From the elevations of the road, to the shape and mix design used for pavement. This is all from gathering data on traffic load or predicted traffic load, weather, proposed speed limit, its function/purpose, etc.

Why do you think track events get stopped when it rains? The coefficient of friction on that track gets reduced to dangerous levels.
 
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So I'm hearing IAG is under rating the heck out of their blocks, and I was also right about thei billet block being iron sleeved. Nobody should get their hopes up, because even though IAG advertised it already it's still undergoing a lot of testing so it can be released tomorrow or released in the year 2035. Who knows, I sure don't. 8o

Their stage 2 tuff block is currently holding like 700+whp and the halves aren't even closed deck. Their Stage 4 closed deck must be good for well over 1,200whp :eek.

This is exciting news. Anyone ever been motor shopping, specifically for modding purposes? 8o

Or buying all the mechanical components to make their own build tearing their block and heads? IAG has some guy I forget his name that is supposedly a surgeon with his skills, which is why their blocks are warrantied and perform extremely well. An IAG Stage4 closed deck short block with Stage V heads will run you like $11k, though. A turbo kit will run you $5-$6k. And that's not counting like 30 other parts you'll need.

Oh, and being #Jrtuned at that level will run you $850. Just sharing information with anybody who is planning a build. I certainly am not, another $30k on this subie is too rich for my blood.
 
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400
 
What's an ecoboost warranty like?

Looks like Cobb is doing a lot of testing on the RS. They disabled a diff in order to stop any torque vectoring and electronic nannies to kick in for a dyno run. I believe it dynoed at 270+whp/320+tq on a dynojet so that's not so bad, just afraid there's not much room for improvement on that turbo, block and drivetrain.

You can probably push out another 30-50whp or so but not sure if it will hold up. It does looks like Ford will
cover a lot of aftermarket parts but I'm not sure on that. Still no tell on reliability since it's so new, all I know is that the rear diff blew on the track while testing, stock.
 
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YoungKing said:
What's an ecoboost warranty like?

Looks like Cobb is doing a lot of testing on the RS. They disabled a diff in order to stop any torque vectoring and electronic nannies to kick in for a dyno run. I believe it dynoed at 270+whp/320+tq on a dynojet so that's not so bad, just afraid there's not much room for improvement on that turbo, block and drivetrain.

You can probably push out another 30-50whp or so but not sure if it will hold up. It does looks like Ford will
cover a lot of aftermarket parts but I'm not sure on that. Still no tell on reliability since it's so new, all I know is that the rear diff blew on the track while testing, stock.
Click to expand...
Well as far as engine (window shopping :lol ) builds .when I get my coupe I wana tear down a 350 lt1 punch it out and stroke it to a 383 with a 60 mm turbo 8psi will make good for 600 hp I thought that rs was supposed to be in the 300hp range
 
Andretti said:
YoungKing said:
What's an ecoboost warranty like?

Looks like Cobb is doing a lot of testing on the RS. They disabled a diff in order to stop any torque vectoring and electronic nannies to kick in for a dyno run. I believe it dynoed at 270+whp/320+tq on a dynojet so that's not so bad, just afraid there's not much room for improvement on that turbo, block and drivetrain.

You can probably push out another 30-50whp or so but not sure if it will hold up. It does looks like Ford will
cover a lot of aftermarket parts but I'm not sure on that. Still no tell on reliability since it's so new, all I know is that the rear diff blew on the track while testing, stock.
Click to expand...
Well as far as engine (window shopping :lol ) builds .when I get my coupe I wana tear down a 350 lt1 punch it out and stroke it to a 383 with a 60 mm turbo 8psi will make good for 600 hp I thought that rs was supposed to be in the 300hp range
Click to expand...

60mm turbo for 8psi?

You'll be waiting forever for literally nothing. I just bought a boost gauge that reads up to 60psi because my stock digital one is ****, and that's about the only reason. Oh, it also maxes out at 24psi which is what I'm currently at when I feed her corn.

You'll probably reap more benefits from a supercharger at that pressure, though, and have your entire rpm range as a powerband
 
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Andretti said:
YoungKing said:
What's an ecoboost warranty like?

Looks like Cobb is doing a lot of testing on the RS. They disabled a diff in order to stop any torque vectoring and electronic nannies to kick in for a dyno run. I believe it dynoed at 270+whp/320+tq on a dynojet so that's not so bad, just afraid there's not much room for improvement on that turbo, block and drivetrain.

You can probably push out another 30-50whp or so but not sure if it will hold up. It does looks like Ford will
cover a lot of aftermarket parts but I'm not sure on that. Still no tell on reliability since it's so new, all I know is that the rear diff blew on the track while testing, stock.
Click to expand...
Well as far as engine (window shopping :lol ) builds .when I get my coupe I wana tear down a 350 lt1 punch it out and stroke it to a 383 with a 60 mm turbo 8psi will make good for 600 hp I thought that rs was supposed to be in the 300hp range
Click to expand...

That was also a dynojet, so it reads about 15% lower on a mustang dyno where mine would dyno at around 245whp.

I'm also only at around 16 or 18psi stock. RS is at 24psi stock
 
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YoungKing said:
Andretti said:
YoungKing said:
What's an ecoboost warranty like?

Looks like Cobb is doing a lot of testing on the RS. They disabled a diff in order to stop any torque vectoring and electronic nannies to kick in for a dyno run. I believe it dynoed at 270+whp/320+tq on a dynojet so that's not so bad, just afraid there's not much room for improvement on that turbo, block and drivetrain.

You can probably push out another 30-50whp or so but not sure if it will hold up. It does looks like Ford will
cover a lot of aftermarket parts but I'm not sure on that. Still no tell on reliability since it's so new, all I know is that the rear diff blew on the track while testing, stock.
Click to expand...
Well as far as engine (window shopping :lol ) builds .when I get my coupe I wana tear down a 350 lt1 punch it out and stroke it to a 383 with a 60 mm turbo 8psi will make good for 600 hp I thought that rs was supposed to be in the 300hp range
Click to expand...

60mm turbo for 8psi?

You'll be waiting forever for literally nothing. I just bought a boost gauge that reads up to 60psi because my stock digital one is ****, and that's about the only reason. Oh, it also maxes out at 24psi which is what I'm currently at when I feed her corn.

You'll probably reap more benefits from a supercharger at that pressure, though, and have your entire rpm range as a powerband
Click to expand...
The lt1 motor (intake manifold to be exact) was built for low end torqueso thatll help . but even then just up the psi.
 
YoungKing said:
Just sharing information with anybody who is planning a build. I certainly am not, another $30k on this subie is too rich for my blood.
Click to expand...
No offense, but I don't think anybody in here is planning on dumping 30 grand into their new Subaru, wrong website for that kind of build.
 
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