Official CAR AUDIO Thread FAQ added

[lightsout56]

What's the cheapest you go on one?

 

[jfdoom]

This is pretty good for the price
http://pacificstereo.com/...lpine-pdx-f4-pd2011.html

 

[miniojw]

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

This is pretty good for the price
http://pacificstereo.com/...lpine-pdx-f4-pd2011.html

Yea that's a good amp I have the 1st gen. Now I'm looking to get the either the Alpine PDX-F6 or JL HD600/4 

 

[glo1980]

Gotta love the Eclipse.

 

[lightsout56]

How about this? I can get a decent discount from BB.

http://www.bestbuy.com/si...8169467345&skuId=9763312

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by LightsOUT56

How about this? I can get a decent discount from BB.

http://www.bestbuy.com/si...8169467345&skuId=9763312

No.

 

[jfdoom]

 

[flight8403]

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

JFDOOM wrote:

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

Bouta get a 2001 or 2002 Bravada, already have a deck, lookin to spend about 1500-2000 on a system... something louuud... What's gonna be the best way to go on that? 

I can put a setup together, but you will have to set aside a second budget for sound deadening and electrical upgrades.

That should be alright...  How much more you think I needa put aside?
  

Here

Get this..i'll make it a lil more simple

Pioneer p4300 $399
http://www.sonicelectroni...ioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html

Image dynamics cxs62 $359
http://www.woofersetc.com...hm-component-system.aspx

Crescendo 1000c4 250 x 2 @ 2 + 500 x 1 @ 4 $239
http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Sundown sa-15 $234
http://www.woofersetc.com...sa-series-subwoofer.aspx

$1231

That leaves you enough for box, battery, misc interconnects, and some light deadening


thats a solid set up but based on experience in car audio 4 channel amps bridged to power a sub and a component set is not the best of ideas.
since you are upgrading the speakers as well why not just get a c2 channel class d monoblock amp for your sub(s) and a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your speakers depending on if you are planning on swapping swapping one or both pairs of speakers.

not that the previous set up is bad but you want something loud so getting a monoblock amp for your subs will perfects your lows while the amp set aside for your speakers will enhance your highs in the front of the vehicle...

also for the head unit if you can get one with 3 pairs of outputs thats even better

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

JFDOOM wrote:

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

Bouta get a 2001 or 2002 Bravada, already have a deck, lookin to spend about 1500-2000 on a system... something louuud... What's gonna be the best way to go on that? 

I can put a setup together, but you will have to set aside a second budget for sound deadening and electrical upgrades.

That should be alright...  How much more you think I needa put aside?
  

Here

Get this..i'll make it a lil more simple

Pioneer p4300 $399
http://www.sonicelectroni...ioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html

Image dynamics cxs62 $359
http://www.woofersetc.com...hm-component-system.aspx

Crescendo 1000c4 250 x 2 @ 2 + 500 x 1 @ 4 $239
http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Sundown sa-15 $234
http://www.woofersetc.com...sa-series-subwoofer.aspx

$1231

That leaves you enough for box, battery, misc interconnects, and some light deadening

thats a solid set up but based on experience in car audio 4 channel amps bridged to power a sub and a component set is not the best of ideas.
since you are upgrading the speakers as well why not just get a c2 channel class d monoblock amp for your sub(s) and a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your speakers depending on if you are planning on swapping swapping one or both pairs of speakers.

not that the previous set up is bad but you want something loud so getting a monoblock amp for your subs will perfects your lows while the amp set aside for your speakers will enhance your highs in the front of the vehicle...

also for the head unit if you can get one with 3 pairs of outputs thats even better

Explain?

The amp has dual power supplies so it's pretty much 2 amps in one case... How would that not work?

 

[lightsout56]

How about this amp for $120?
Kicker 700.5
5-Channel Amplifier with Class D 5th Channel for Subwoofer(s)
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)
Bass Boost Remote Control: 0 - 18dB at 40Hz
CEA-2006 Compliant
24dB per octave Crossover:
Active at 50Hz - 200Hz
High Pass, Low Pass, or Full-Pass selectable
4 gauge power/ground leads
Dimensions: 20"L x 9 5/8"W x 2 1/8

 

[flight8403]

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

JFDOOM wrote:

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

Bouta get a 2001 or 2002 Bravada, already have a deck, lookin to spend about 1500-2000 on a system... something louuud... What's gonna be the best way to go on that? 

I can put a setup together, but you will have to set aside a second budget for sound deadening and electrical upgrades.

That should be alright...  How much more you think I needa put aside?
  

Here

Get this..i'll make it a lil more simple

Pioneer p4300 $399
http://www.sonicelectroni...ioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html

Image dynamics cxs62 $359
http://www.woofersetc.com...hm-component-system.aspx

Crescendo 1000c4 250 x 2 @ 2 + 500 x 1 @ 4 $239
http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Sundown sa-15 $234
http://www.woofersetc.com...sa-series-subwoofer.aspx

$1231

That leaves you enough for box, battery, misc interconnects, and some light deadening

thats a solid set up but based on experience in car audio 4 channel amps bridged to power a sub and a component set is not the best of ideas.
since you are upgrading the speakers as well why not just get a c2 channel class d monoblock amp for your sub(s) and a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your speakers depending on if you are planning on swapping swapping one or both pairs of speakers.

not that the previous set up is bad but you want something loud so getting a monoblock amp for your subs will perfects your lows while the amp set aside for your speakers will enhance your highs in the front of the vehicle...

also for the head unit if you can get one with 3 pairs of outputs thats even better

Explain?

The amp has dual power supplies so it's pretty much 2 amps in one case... How would that not work?


4 channel amps have to be bridged to power a sub and the minimum impedance on a bridged amp is 4ohms that  is weak...Myself and many others would strongly recommend for the best output only run if possible at 2 or 1 ohms. 

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

JFDOOM wrote:

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

Bouta get a 2001 or 2002 Bravada, already have a deck, lookin to spend about 1500-2000 on a system... something louuud... What's gonna be the best way to go on that? 

I can put a setup together, but you will have to set aside a second budget for sound deadening and electrical upgrades.

That should be alright...  How much more you think I needa put aside?
  

Here

Get this..i'll make it a lil more simple

Pioneer p4300 $399
http://www.sonicelectroni...ioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html

Image dynamics cxs62 $359
http://www.woofersetc.com...hm-component-system.aspx

Crescendo 1000c4 250 x 2 @ 2 + 500 x 1 @ 4 $239
http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Sundown sa-15 $234
http://www.woofersetc.com...sa-series-subwoofer.aspx

$1231

That leaves you enough for box, battery, misc interconnects, and some light deadening

thats a solid set up but based on experience in car audio 4 channel amps bridged to power a sub and a component set is not the best of ideas.
since you are upgrading the speakers as well why not just get a c2 channel class d monoblock amp for your sub(s) and a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your speakers depending on if you are planning on swapping swapping one or both pairs of speakers.

not that the previous set up is bad but you want something loud so getting a monoblock amp for your subs will perfects your lows while the amp set aside for your speakers will enhance your highs in the front of the vehicle...

also for the head unit if you can get one with 3 pairs of outputs thats even better

Explain?

The amp has dual power supplies so it's pretty much 2 amps in one case... How would that not work?

4 channel amps have to be bridged to power a sub and the minimum impedance on a bridged amp is 4ohms that  is weak...Myself and many others would strongly recommend for the best output only run if possible at 2 or 1 ohms. 
 The amp does 500 x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms. The sub is a dual 2 ohm that gets wired to 4 ohms. What's the problem here? Why run at a lower ohm when you don't need to?

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by LightsOUT56

How about this amp for $120?
Kicker 700.5
5-Channel Amplifier with Class D 5th Channel for Subwoofer(s)
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)
Bass Boost Remote Control: 0 - 18dB at 40Hz
CEA-2006 Compliant
24dB per octave Crossover:
Active at 50Hz - 200Hz
High Pass, Low Pass, or Full-Pass selectable
4 gauge power/ground leads
Dimensions: 20"L x 9 5/8"W x 2 1/8

that's cool

 

[lightsout56]

You think it'll go good with my Infinity 6.5's and 6x9's? How much of a difference will it make?

 

[jfdoom]

It'll work.

 

[flight8403]

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by Flight8403

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

JFDOOM wrote:

Originally Posted by ryaneff23

Bouta get a 2001 or 2002 Bravada, already have a deck, lookin to spend about 1500-2000 on a system... something louuud... What's gonna be the best way to go on that? 

I can put a setup together, but you will have to set aside a second budget for sound deadening and electrical upgrades.

That should be alright...  How much more you think I needa put aside?
  

Here

Get this..i'll make it a lil more simple

Pioneer p4300 $399
http://www.sonicelectroni...ioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html

Image dynamics cxs62 $359
http://www.woofersetc.com...hm-component-system.aspx

Crescendo 1000c4 250 x 2 @ 2 + 500 x 1 @ 4 $239
http://www.crescendoaudio...duct.php?productid=17516

Sundown sa-15 $234
http://www.woofersetc.com...sa-series-subwoofer.aspx

$1231

That leaves you enough for box, battery, misc interconnects, and some light deadening

thats a solid set up but based on experience in car audio 4 channel amps bridged to power a sub and a component set is not the best of ideas.
since you are upgrading the speakers as well why not just get a c2 channel class d monoblock amp for your sub(s) and a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your speakers depending on if you are planning on swapping swapping one or both pairs of speakers.

not that the previous set up is bad but you want something loud so getting a monoblock amp for your subs will perfects your lows while the amp set aside for your speakers will enhance your highs in the front of the vehicle...

also for the head unit if you can get one with 3 pairs of outputs thats even better

Explain?

The amp has dual power supplies so it's pretty much 2 amps in one case... How would that not work?

4 channel amps have to be bridged to power a sub and the minimum impedance on a bridged amp is 4ohms that  is weak...Myself and many others would strongly recommend for the best output only run if possible at 2 or 1 ohms. 

 The amp does 500 x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms. The sub is a dual 2 ohm that gets wired to 4 ohms. What's the problem here? Why run at a lower ohm when you don't need to?


Why sacrifice sound quality when you don't have too, especially on that 15' sub. Im sure you and I can agree that 15' kicks out crazy bass but isnt the most accurate of all the sizes. On top of that you are recommending to run that at 4ohms which imo sounds like crap regardless of the sub size. But maybe that is just me I'd rather have a nice clean all around sound that just a bunch of off beat lows and minimal highs.
I work for sonic electronics and we customers allllll day long calling to return 4 channel amps do to sound quality of their subs and we constantly tell them over and over unless you are runnin a low rms 8inch just get a separate mono sub for your woofer.

But like I said that is just my suggestion 

 

[jfdoom]

15's not accurate? 

Sub size does NOT determine frequency or transient response, enclosure does. This is why i preach in here not to get prefab boxes. You can't have one driver playing 30Hz faster than another driver playing 30Hz. It's like saying that when I am driving 70 Mph in my car, it is faster than 70 Mph in your car. 30Hz=30Hz the size doesn't matter, if it's powered adequately in the proper enclosure it will move at 30Hz when it's being fed the signal to do so, the same as a 10" or even a 1" tweet. The only thing that would change that is not having enough energy to counteract the momentum of the moving mass (which is why a bad enclosure makes a difference because it may have to overcome more momentum than intended because it loses the proper amount resistance provided by the air in the enclosure). If it sounds like crap it's because it's being fed crap (wrong freq's under/overpowered) or it's in a crap enclosure, all other things considered equal the only thing that should change is output based on cone area.All subs are "fast" enough to keep up with the music, you just perceive it as sloppy because you spent $2000 on 4 18" subs that play .004% of the frequency range very loud and then have one pair of 6.5 inchers up front drowning in bass. Not you, per-say. Bet you didn't know that the best sounding car in the world(Richard Clark's Speakerworks Grand National) uses 15" subs.

How does an ohm sound like crap? Didn't you know that when you lower the ohm load, you introduce more heat and distortion into the signal? Read up on ohms law. For someone who "works" for a car audio company, you aren't too bright.

Class dismissed.

 

[boutmymoney333]

Can somebody school me on a bazooka tube? My cousin had one in his accord with stock radio a couple of years back and I remember it sounding nice. I got a 08 TL with navi and im not trying to change out the deck.

 

[jfdoom]

Changing out the HU in the TL is a pain in the #!% so i don't blame you.

Bazooka tubes are trash, though. Infinity basslink is better.

 

[kingtre]

any thoughts/experiences on the pioneer AVIC-F900BT head unit?  

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by Kingtre

any thoughts/experiences on the pioneer AVIC-F900BT head unit?  

Good unit. A little dated, but it's packed with features. Z110bt is better. The z130bt is dropping soon so wait it out for price drops on the f900 + z110bt.

Alpine has the best sound quality
Kenwood has the best navigation
Pioneer has the best gui + ipod control

Pick your poison.

 

[lemonade41]

I have one, stay away. I've had so many issues with mine its ridiculous. Issues with the USB cord, the crazy looping issue that makes it restart contiuously. Not playing sound on some videos. Youd be better off with a newer 3200 unit.

 

[jfdoom]

Originally Posted by Lemonade41

I have one, stay away. I've had so many issues with mine its ridiculous. Issues with the USB cord, the crazy looping issue that makes it restart contiuously. Not playing sound on some videos. Youd be better off with a newer 3200 unit.

Thought that was fixed with a firmware update?

 

[l0key jeenius]

I have come to the conclusion that I have no idea what to get when it come to car audio

right now I only have a  12" rocksford fosgate powered sub....what do y'all think I should get next if I just want it to sound good? which head unit and what kind of amp? I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy btw if that helps...

 

[kingtre]

Originally Posted by JFDOOM

Originally Posted by Lemonade41

I have one, stay away. I've had so many issues with mine its ridiculous. Issues with the USB cord, the crazy looping issue that makes it restart contiuously. Not playing sound on some videos. Youd be better off with a newer 3200 unit.

Thought that was fixed with a firmware update?

yea i've read about those problems and that the newest update fixed them...did you update yours?

I'm getting it for cheap so its not really a fair comparative to a newer $1000 unit - i just need the basics