\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

[grandtheftbike]

What grade did you use? You've used clay as well but would say you prefer it over nanoskin?

Would you recommend clay bar AND nanoskin right after?

I'll probably use the mitt for all the crevices or places where clay may get stuck. But yea all those answers would be helpful thanks.

Fine grade as well. I've used clay a few times, but I would prefer nanoskin over it just because it's much easier to work with.

Clay + nanoskin would be overkill imo. If I had the patience, I would choose clay over nanoskin. Plus you can see the amount of junk on the clay

 

[kevenmayne]

Is anyone here familiar with grey market vehicles?

There's this imported Japanese vehicle for sale that has plates and a legit title, but the vin number isn't a full number, still the 10 digit Japan one. I read that someone at the DMV just looked the other way or was paid and that's how these titles get made, but that the car will still be taken away once the government finds out. Is this just an L waiting to happen if someone buys the car?

 

[youngking]

What grade did you use? You've used clay as well but would say you prefer it over nanoskin?

Would you recommend clay bar AND nanoskin right after?

I'll probably use the mitt for all the crevices or places where clay may get stuck. But yea all those answers would be helpful thanks.

Fine grade as well. I've used clay a few times, but I would prefer nanoskin over it just because it's much easier to work with.

Clay + nanoskin would be overkill imo. If I had the patience, I would choose clay over nanoskin. Plus you can see the amount of junk on the clay

Thanks, fam.

I bought the Nanoskin Medium and was going to purchase the Fine to use way more frequently once I see how it performs. I have both clay and the Mitt so I'll probably compare the two and use clay first, let some contaminants build up and use the medium then use the Fine every 1-2 weeks or so.

 

[Nawzlew]

Is anyone here familiar with grey market vehicles?

There's this imported Japanese vehicle for sale that has plates and a legit title, but the vin number isn't a full number, still the 10 digit Japan one. I read that someone at the DMV just looked the other way or was paid and that's how these titles get made, but that the car will still be taken away once the government finds out. Is this just an L waiting to happen if someone buys the car?

were they made int the same factory? molds?

 

[kevenmayne]

were they made int the same factory? molds?

Yeah, it's a Subaru sti. Bugeye

 

[nelson999]

 

Is anyone here familiar with grey market vehicles?

There's this imported Japanese vehicle for sale that has plates and a legit title, but the vin number isn't a full number, still the 10 digit Japan one. I read that someone at the DMV just looked the other way or was paid and that's how these titles get made, but that the car will still be taken away once the government finds out. Is this just an L waiting to happen if someone buys the car?

were they made int the same factory? molds?

Gray market just means it was imported and/or registered here fraudulently.  Like if you ever saw a skyline registered here before the 25 year rule kicked in, it was probably registered as a 240sx.  Gray market

 

[waitwut]

tell me more about this nanoskin will i have to polish and stuff after like a claybar?

 

[nelson999]

Just read about the kid from Alpha Dog dying because of the Jeep recall where the car says it's in Park but it's really not.  Rolled down his driveway and smashed him against a brick mailbox

 

[sgamon]

Just read about the kid from Alpha Dog dying because of the Jeep recall where the car says it's in Park but it's really not.  Rolled down his driveway and smashed him against a brick mailbox

I read that wrong at first. Thought he was driving and put it in park then crashed against a mailbox. Left me like how'd he die from that? Then I read it again...

 

[waitwut]

yeah heard about that isnt there a NTer here with one too

 

[youngking]

tell me more about this nanoskin will i have to polish and stuff after like a claybar?

It's supposed to replace your claybar. If you haven't clayed in a while get the Nanoskin Medium or a Medium claybar. Both same thing(but from what grandtheftbike said, a Clay is better so I want to try out the difference since he did mentioned he used the Fine Nanoskin which isn't as robust as the Medium will be for contamination removal. From my understanding, the Fine Nanoskin or Fine Claybar you can even use weekly with no problems at all.) If your paint is neglected then you would need to clay, then machine compound, then machine polish, then your glaze/sealant/wax/spray wax/spray quick detailer in that order.

I personally am not going into strong/fast machines right now as I don't want to sand down my clear coat, which is what the compound and polisher does.

If your paint is fine just Nanoskin medium (Fine if you already passed the medium Clay or medium Nanoskin not too long ago), you can apply a good polisher by hand and just buff it dry with a MF towel, then follow the whole hand applied (or low speed/power machine which is what I'll be trying out. This won't cut into your clear coat), after you buff/dry the polisher off by hand follow the sequence I just mentioned. Every step has a specific way to do it, I believe you're supposed to let sealants dry for a certain amount of time (still have to look more into how long I let what product dry for before hand buffing it).

The Nanoskin or Clay is also great for your windshield and Windows, as is a glass sealant and water repeller. You can probably even use your same paint sealant on your glass. I'm also using Rain-X, just need to find out when to apply it.

I did most of the research just have to brushen up on the procedures and techniques once I actually have my car with me.

The great thing about Nanoskin is that it can be dropped on the floor and just rinsed off properly, whereas a claybar will need to be tossed immediately. It's much faster as you can simply glide through your body with it and it should act just like the sticky clay does. You also absolutely need some kind of Lube solution for the claybar, and nobody will recommend just using soap and water for lubing. Nanoskin works perfectly fine with just soap and water from what I've seen people do. I'll still be using a lube solution along with a foamed out car/soap and water just to be safe.

 

[yanky]

So I just got put on to a new alternative to claybar which are prep mitts.

Bought the Nanoskin medium and will probably buy the fine once I see how it performs. It's almost hard to believe this mitt does the same thing that clay does and it can be dropped and all the contamination simply rinsed off. You also don't need any lube but your soap and water you use to wash the car anyway, so technically you can wash as you clay. I'll be washing first then I'll be passing the mitt/claying after with soap/water +lube just to be safe. Process for the paint will be wash with foam cannon + 2-buckets(soap and rinse), Claybar/Nanoskin Mitt, Glaze, blaklight glaze, sealant, high gloss spray sealant, carnauba wax, spray wax, quick detail spray to dry. It will definitely make my life a hell of a lot easier than clay barring. Mind you, I never tried either but I was told to watch out for certain things so the clay doesn't get stuck, constantly having a new clean side, not dropping it, etc.

That's just the paint. I'll have a different process for the glass and wheels, which everything will be sealed in the end.
.
I'll break the mitt in on my windows, then head towards the paint. If all is good it looks like an easy process compared to what claybarring looked. Anyway, car is still not in my hands, actually in CT as we speak. Then once I get it back it's immediately going to another shop, and then doing small audio **** to fine-tune the acoustics and it should finally be in my hands to start the process after everything is done.

I think those are just overkill (even the quick detail spray) imo but do you playa. You're letting them cure in between correct? And you have a grit guard?

We just got a Superformance Shelby Daytona Coupe with a 427. Thing has like 600whp/600wtq and weighs just over 2000lbs. Absolute monster.

 

[youngking]

This is the only machine I'll be using for now, since it can cover a big surface area and make application quicker and is not strong enough to have an effect on the thickness of your clear coat. It probably does if you press on it hard enough or something, but you shouldn't be using this for compound/buffing out swirls or scratches.

Have some microfiber and foam bonnets to wrap around the rotating end. Going to see what will be better for application.

 

[youngking]

So I just got put on to a new alternative to claybar which are prep mitts.

Bought the Nanoskin medium and will probably buy the fine once I see how it performs. It's almost hard to believe this mitt does the same thing that clay does and it can be dropped and all the contamination simply rinsed off. You also don't need any lube but your soap and water you use to wash the car anyway, so technically you can wash as you clay. I'll be washing first then I'll be passing the mitt/claying after with soap/water +lube just to be safe. Process for the paint will be wash with foam cannon + 2-buckets(soap and rinse), Claybar/Nanoskin Mitt, Glaze, blaklight glaze, sealant, high gloss spray sealant, carnauba wax, spray wax, quick detail spray to dry. It will definitely make my life a hell of a lot easier than clay barring. Mind you, I never tried either but I was told to watch out for certain things so the clay doesn't get stuck, constantly having a new clean side, not dropping it, etc.

That's just the paint. I'll have a different process for the glass and wheels, which everything will be sealed in the end.
.
I'll break the mitt in on my windows, then head towards the paint. If all is good it looks like an easy process compared to what claybarring looked. Anyway, car is still not in my hands, actually in CT as we speak. Then once I get it back it's immediately going to another shop, and then doing small audio **** to fine-tune the acoustics and it should finally be in my hands to start the process after everything is done.

I think those are just overkill (even the quick detail spray) imo but do you playa. You're letting them cure in between correct? And you have a grit guard?

We just got a Superformance Shelby Daytona Coupe with a 427. Thing has like 600whp/600wtq and weighs just over 2000lbs. Absolute monster.

Yep 2 grit guards and one of them has an extra grit that goes at like a 45 degree angle for you to rub your wash mitt on.

But I'll be using a foam canon regardless so technically I'll probably only need one bucket but I'm using another with just water for rinsing.

I still have to see what I have to let cure and what I don't. I know for sure the sealant but not the glaze. Once I have my car I'll look more into it.

 

[sgamon]

I've only clay barred once and it was about a month ago. It wasn't too bad just keep it lubed with detail spray or something

 

[youngking]

Once a month should be great. That's what I'll probably do, but hit it with the Fine claybar in between at the 2-week mark.

 

[grandtheftbike]

Can you attach the nanoskin foam pad to that polisher? That would be way better than a clay bar by hand

 

[yanky]

Yep 2 grit guards and one of them has an extra grit that goes at like a 45 degree angle for you to rub your wash mitt on.

But I'll be using a foam canon regardless so technically I'll probably only need one bucket but I'm using another with just water for rinsing.

I still have to see what I have to let cure and what I don't. I know for sure the sealant but not the glaze. Once I have my car I'll look more into it.

Definitely gonna need to let that sealant and wax sit for 12 hours before putting on the wax but I would let the glaze also sit for 2-3 hours maybe even more just to be safe so you don't remove any of it when putting on the sealant. Have fun! It's a long process and I spent 3 days doing all that to my car. Do you have an iron/tar remover also?

Just fyi by hitting it with the clay bar you will remove the wax/sealant/glaze that was put on. Now I don't know about the "Fine" clay bars but I'm assuming it'll still remove it so going over with a clay bar every often might not be the best thing to do.

 

[youngking]

Can you attach the nanoskin foam pad to that polisher? That would be way better than a clay bar

I would need bonnets to properly wrap it around the machine, it's like a shower cap looking product. But the Nanoskin glides so smoothly and quick it would probably be faster doing it by hand anyway. I need it for other applications since it covers a large surface area compared to the little foam or MF hand applicators. And would need to properly maneuver it.

I'll get the hang of it once I practice. If it doesn't act like I'm hoping it does I'll simply just go to hand application.

 

[youngking]

Yep 2 grit guards and one of them has an extra grit that goes at like a 45 degree angle for you to rub your wash mitt on.

But I'll be using a foam canon regardless so technically I'll probably only need one bucket but I'm using another with just water for rinsing.

I still have to see what I have to let cure and what I don't. I know for sure the sealant but not the glaze. Once I have my car I'll look more into it.

Definitely gonna need to let that sealant and wax sit for 12 hours before putting on the wax but I would let the glaze also sit for 2-3 hours maybe even more just to be safe so you don't remove any of it when putting on the sealant. Have fun! It's a long process and I spent 3 days doing all that to my car. Do you have an iron/tar remover also?

Just fyi by hitting it with the clay bar you will remove the wax/sealant/glaze that was put on. Now I don't know about the "Fine" clay bars but I'm assuming it'll still remove it so going over with a clay bar every often might not be the best thing to do.

I figured that on the frequent clay bar usage, but wasn't sure. And thanks for the advice , I'll definitely let it cure much longer now, just have to keep it in my garage and not in my driveway.

 

[youngking]

I read some guy posting his like 2 or 3 day process for curing, I'll have to look for it again to see what he did. Basically did the same thing I'm aiming to do with the 2 coats of glaze and wax.

I'll probably be doing 2 coats of sealant 2, as the second one is like a high-gloss spray sealant. Using the same concept as the hand applied liquid wax and spray wax.

 

[youngking]

Can you attach the nanoskin foam pad to that polisher? That would be way better than a clay bar by hand

Actually, now that you mention this(thought you said wrap Nanoskin before), I have seen an attachment that allows the clay to sit in the middle of a pad and you attach it to a machine. I was skeptical but I'll probably look into it after seeing how tedious it is doing it by hand.

 

[yanky]

Can you attach the nanoskin foam pad to that polisher? That would be way better than a clay bar by hand

Actually, now that you mention this(thought you said wrap Nanoskin before), I have seen an attachment that allows the clay to sit in the middle of a pad and you attach it to a machine. I was skeptical but I'll probably look into it after seeing how tedious it is doing it by hand.

The pads have velcro on the back just like any lake country or griots pads so you just stick them onto the polisher.

 

[sgamon]

Once a month should be great. That's what I'll probably do, but hit it with the Fine claybar in between at the 2-week mark.

Seems like overkill tbh. Most people recommend clay every 6 months. But if you wanna be ocd then do it once a month

 

[azbucks916]

Sorry for the crappy pic, but just got the whip back from the shop last night. Satin Pearl Nero full body wrap with gloss black roof, side mirrors and spoiler.