\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

Sgamon said:
YoungKing said:
Once a month should be great. That's what I'll probably do, but hit it with the Fine claybar in between at the 2-week mark.
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Seems like overkill tbh. Most people recommend clay every 6 months. But if you wanna be ocd then do it once a month
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Most likely going for way less than 6 months. I have to see how the water beads up and the finish after a few weeks. If I feel it needs another detail I'm going in again
 
yanky said:
YoungKing said:
grandtheftbike said:
Can you attach the nanoskin foam pad to that polisher? That would be way better than a clay bar by hand
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Actually, now that you mention this(thought you said wrap Nanoskin before), I have seen an attachment that allows the clay to sit in the middle of a pad and you attach it to a machine. I was skeptical but I'll probably look into it after seeing how tedious it is doing it by hand.
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The pads have velcro on the back just like any lake country or griots pads so you just stick them onto the polisher.
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Wait, can you explain this? What pads have velcro?

All the pads I've purchased are for hand application, and that machine takes bonnets/shower cap like pads. I know I've seen a separate large pad with the clay in the middle, need to look into it more as I don't know the drive on this machine or what the soft rotating component can be replaced with.

I honestly don't even know why they call it a polisher. I haven't even used it yet but I'm assuming it's soft/not so abrasive as those Rupes and other polishers are. If it is I'll have to be extra careful applying everything, which would probably also defeat the purpose of doing it faster than hand application.
 
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Sat in a homie's Mazda 6 today. Ive sat in one at the car show but man, I forgot how friggin dope this interior is. I like it better than some of my friends Bimmers and Benz'.
 
YoungKing said:
Wait, can you explain this? What pads have velcro?

All the pads I've purchased are for hand application, and that machine takes bonnets/shower cap like pads. I know I've seen a separate large pad with the clay in the middle, need to look into it more as I don't know the drive on this machine or what the soft rotating component can be replaced with.

I honestly don't even know why they call it a polisher. I haven't even used it yet but I'm assuming it's soft/not so abrasive as those Rupes and other polishers are. If it is I'll have to be extra careful applying everything, which would probably also defeat the purpose of doing it faster than hand application.
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The Rupes or griots garage dual action polishers are not abrasive like you say they are. It all depends on which pads you use. There are pads for removing swirls/scratches from light to heavy and there are pads used to apply waxes and sealants.

This chart breaks down the different types of pads and what they're used for. Each manufacture has their own coloring scheme which refers to a different type of cut and all these pads have velcro on the back which is used to attach to the backing plate of your Rupes or Griots garage.

http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buffing-pad-chart-lc.htm

Pads are sold in various sizes from 3 inches all the way up to 8.5 inches. Optimum size is usually a 5 inch backing plate with a 5.5 or 6 inch pad. There are also flat pads and pads with grooves on them that distribute the product better.

Ex. http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-6pack.html

BTW autogeek.net is a great place to get detailing supplies, that's where I get all my stuff from. And you'll also need some apc or a pad cleaner to get that product out once you're done with it.

If you look at this video you can see the velcro part at the 0:38 mark and he puts it on his Rupes at the 1:07 mark.



I'm not sure where you got those covers from but I'd invest in actual pads and DA polisher if I were you. You don't need to drop a ton of money on a Rupes just get yourself a Griots garage random orbital with a 5 inch backing plate and 5.5 or 6 inch pads. Just get the right pads for the right job. Rupes are made mainly for the pros. And always remember less is MORE. I put a ton of sealant on my pads and by the time I was done I wan ringing out so much sealant from the pad that I could've done another entire pass across the car. The sealant stays in the pad so just push down onto the paint to get it out. Hope this clears things up
 
yanky said:
YoungKing said:
Wait, can you explain this? What pads have velcro?

All the pads I've purchased are for hand application, and that machine takes bonnets/shower cap like pads. I know I've seen a separate large pad with the clay in the middle, need to look into it more as I don't know the drive on this machine or what the soft rotating component can be replaced with.

I honestly don't even know why they call it a polisher. I haven't even used it yet but I'm assuming it's soft/not so abrasive as those Rupes and other polishers are. If it is I'll have to be extra careful applying everything, which would probably also defeat the purpose of doing it faster than hand application.
Click to expand...

The Rupes or griots garage dual action polishers are not abrasive like you say they are. It all depends on which pads you use. There are pads for removing swirls/scratches from light to heavy and there are pads used to apply waxes and sealants.

This chart breaks down the different types of pads and what they're used for. Each manufacture has their own coloring scheme which refers to a different type of cut and all these pads have velcro on the back which is used to attach to the backing plate of your Rupes or Griots garage.

http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buffing-pad-chart-lc.htm

Pads are sold in various sizes from 3 inches all the way up to 8.5 inches. Optimum size is usually a 5 inch backing plate with a 5.5 or 6 inch pad. There are also flat pads and pads with grooves on them that distribute the product better.

Ex. http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-6pack.html

BTW autogeek.net is a great place to get detailing supplies, that's where I get all my stuff from. And you'll also need some apc or a pad cleaner to get that product out once you're done with it.

If you look at this video you can see the velcro part at the 0:38 mark and he puts it on his Rupes at the 1:07 mark.



I'm not sure where you got those covers from but I'd invest in actual pads and DA polisher if I were you. You don't need to drop a ton of money on a Rupes just get yourself a Griots garage random orbital with a 5 inch backing plate and 5.5 or 6 inch pads. Just get the right pads for the right job. Rupes are made mainly for the pros. And always remember less is MORE. I put a ton of sealant on my pads and by the time I was done I wan ringing out so much sealant from the pad that I could've done another entire pass across the car. The sealant stays in the pad so just push down onto the paint to get it out. Hope this clears things up
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Awesome, thanks for this bud. :smokin
 
If you're wondering if you should clay your car or not put your hand in a sandwich baggie and run it over your paint. the plastic will magnify the feel of any surface contaminents, it will give you a better idea if you should clay or not.

depends how anal you are really.
 
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i know my car needs a clay but it takes forever and too much extra stuff to do tempted to cop a nanoskin if its easier/faster
 
Fixed my 2k rev problem by recalibrating the throttle body. Apparently the cars brain memorizes driving style. I recently took a 100 mile trip and I guess it went into like an "Eco mode" kind of thing that wouldn't let me rev as much as I like to lol even my mpg went up
It wouldn't even let me do a burnout (which I tried to do as a test) and now I can break em loose like nothing :hat
 
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Yep, looks like I'll be giving back the low powered polisher along with all the bonnets purchase and go for a high quality one. Had no clue you can adjust the speed so low and use super soft pads that are specific for applications.

This is awesome :smokin
Once again, I appreciate the help yanky yanky

I'll be posting up my arsenal soon. I'm confident you will approve :), just need to find another mobile case or bag for the tools and chemicals that don't fit in both of my toolboxes. It's already packed, with multiple products , applicators and different MF towels for different purposes that I can carry around as the setup is similar to a 2 story suitcase.
 
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Did some data logging to check timing and fueling. All well wothin safe levels for rhis car and tune. Perfect.
Thanks @kiddersstr for checking over some pulls. And its running great. Peak boost on a sep run (top left pic 20.7psi [emoji]128525[/emoji]) other 3 pics are from a 3rd gear pull thru to 4th for a bit as well on WOT. Peron are [emoji]128526[/emoji]
Thanks again Gareth. Really Appreciate you #Tkperformance #TeamPeron

1000
 
I'm over the matte wraps. Used to think they looked dope af but they're meh now to me.
Maybe some colors in matte or satin are decent but I wouldn't do it
 
damn, the body shop wanted 7k for a full respray. they initially qouted me 5k but called me back and told me they gave me the wrong price. :{
 
Probably not just a simple respray. You can tell them you just want a respray and it may come out cheaper, but it probably won't cure as well/start peeling as a proper paint job.

Also look inquire about the brand equipment and paint they're using.
 
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It was everything except the engine bay and inside of the bed. So door jambs, pulling all the glass etc.

I guess i'll finally wash it today :{
 
Anybody here owned a panamera? Thinking of getting a used one in a year or two. I want a sedan that can handle well. Im worried about maintenace though.
 
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Unless you can cancel out the cost of the equipment doing paint jobs, it's probably not in your best interest to DIY.

If someone is willing to rent their booth and equipment and simply make you pay for the paint as well, that would be awesome.

But you're probably looking at $30k+ or so for everything depending on the quality. Then you can knock yourself out.

Actually not a bad idea if you have space in your home, I could probably fit 20+ curing booths in my yard(All you'll need is 1), plus add detailing services in a separate booth. [emoji]129300[/emoji]

Offer high quality $2-$3k full paint jobs until you establish clientele then start slowly increasing your costs and advertise the quality of equipment and paint you use. You'll probably need to hire someone first and learn from him, and pay him by the hour to do the work.

Winning. There you go, go get rich.
 
Andretti said:
How easy is it to paint your own car if you have all the equipment?

Has anyone ever done it?
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Ive seen some pretty nice paint jobs that were done in garages/drive ways. A big part of it is in the prep, also knowing how to spray.

That being said, all that prep and a booth/oven will yield superior results.
 
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