\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

came out better than I expected, gonna do like 4 coats of glaze next time.

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4 coats probably won't make a difference than 2 coats would. Only reason I'm doing 2 coats is because both glazes are different products.

If you haven't compound and polished the car, that would be a much better option IMO. Then your paint would look brand new. It looks good compared to what you were describing, but I do notice dullness.

Definitely get it machine compound and polished, then hit it with the glaze.
 
yeah, needs work for sure. I'll still paint it eventually cause this single stage paint has its limitations.
 
Saw a metallic grey STI cruise down a side street by me. Love that color but the dudes wheels looked like they were plasti dipped with a light crimson like color? Idk how I was feeling about that. I didn't get too good of a look either. I hope I see it again to snap a pic.
 
 
Dealers always send out notices asking you to bring your vehicle in for trade-in assessment. It's a form letter and nothing special so don't read too much into it. They want your car because then they'll make money on your used car and when you buy a new car.

It never makes financial sense to trade in a vehicle before it's paid off but if you can swing the payments and it makes you happier then go for it.

But when you say "better car" with lower payments do you just mean a newer car but not necessarily more luxurious/sporty, or do you mean actually both? If so the only way to get lower payments is to extend out the payment time frame which will make it slower to pay off.
Thanks for responding. Yeah, a newer and better car than the one I have. It does make sense to pay off the loan first then trade it in.
 
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Nothing wrong with dct but what made u want it over manual on an m2
Resell value wise I know manual would have been better but I just have a lot of stop and go traffic where I'm at and I'll be moving up towards NYC metro area and it just wouldn't have been convenient for me to drive a stick. I know others in the same situation who would have said otherwise but that's just me. 
You will be happy with it, DCT is awesome.   Congrats on the car, post pics when it arrives
 
So I installed footwell lighting cause people on the internet were saying its a good alternative to using the map/dome light. But I dont know they seem useless unless youre tryimg to tie your shoes.
 
 
Thanks for responding. Yeah, a newer and better car than the one I have. It does make sense to pay off the loan first then trade it in.
Sure, it never hurts to get some numbers to chew on, the only cost is your time.

As long as your car is worth more than you owe you'll have some equity involved.
 
Oldschool car shoe here in Australia
Yeh my FiST didnt fit in but **** it haha
Damn there was some cars we rarely see here, probaly normal in USA

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Anyone ever have their car appraised by a dealer? I'm looking for advice on what to do, so here is my dilemna. A local dealer sent me a notice that they wanted to look at my whip and assess the value to see if I wanted to trade it for something in their inventory.

Right now I'm still paying on my car that is financed, but I'm looking to get out of it and into a better car with lower payments. Here's the bad part: I did my own appraisal on Kelly Blue Book and it was below what I initially thought I could get for it and have a feeling that a dealer with probably devalue it lower to make a profit.

Should I just finish paying off my loan? Or get into a newer car with lower payments and price which means I can pay it off faster.

Don't forget you'd be rolling over the unpaid loan in to your new loan. Which would equal more monthly payments.
 
Don't get caught falling for the oldest trick in the book, salesmen want to sell you on a lower monthly payment, but then lowball your car and sign you up for a 84 mo loan.

Just focus on sales price of the new whip (scope Truecar) and sell yours privately to minimize the net cost to you.
 
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If you owe more than the cars worth than yes you should pay off the loan before trade as it will be added to the new vehicle (ex owe 10k car worth 8k on trade the extra 2k gets added to new loan).

If you owe less than cars worth then paying off loan doesn't matter as much (ex owe 5k car worth 10k on trade you get 5k to work with as down payment).

Trading in a car that's not paid off rarely makes financial sense (as presumably it's only 2-4 years old) but I'll admit nothing we do that makes us happy ever does, right? Let us know what vehicles are in question so we can get an idea of what you are considering.
 
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Oldschool car shoe here in Australia
Yeh my FiST didnt fit in but **** it haha
Damn there was some cars we rarely see here, probaly normal in USA

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Yes. Yes :pimp:

The hardbody caddy in the last pic.

My mom told me my uncle copped a new caddy for his 50th b day . Last I spoke to him he said he was getting a vette so I hope he got the cts v . :lol:
 
Don't forget you'd be rolling over the unpaid loan in to your new loan. Which would equal more monthly payments.
Yeah, I had to take that into consideration. The last thing I wanna do is have more years on another loan.
Don't get caught falling for the oldest trick in the book, salesmen want to sell you on a lower monthly payment, but then lowball your car and sign you up for a 84 mo loan.

Just focus on sales price of the new whip (scope Truecar) and sell yours privately to minimize the net cost to you.
Yeah, that's what I figured he would do. lowball me than try to make his money through the loan. I've never sold a car online before so I don't know how to go about that to be perfectly honest.
If you owe more than the cars worth than yes you should pay off the loan before trade as it will be added to the new vehicle (ex owe 10k car worth 8k on trade the extra 2k gets added to new loan).

If you owe less than cars worth then paying off loan doesn't matter as much (ex owe 5k car worth 10k on trade you get 5k to work with as down payment).

Trading in a car that's not paid off rarely makes financial sense (as presumably it's only 2-4 years old) but I'll admit nothing we do that makes us happy ever does, right? Let us know what vehicles are in question so we can get an idea of what you are considering.
I did my own appraisal based of Kelly Blue Book and it wasn't as high as I thought it would. Kelly and Edmunds had it a few grand below than what I personally valued it. My current loan is more than the value of the car and if I got a new car now it would be an upside down loan.

My current vehicle is a 2006 blue Toyota Rav 4 sport model at 128,000 miles. And the vehicle I was looking at was a 2012 Kia Sportage at 90,000 miles and the dealer is asking for $10,500.
 
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Some clean pro-touring rides from Cars and Coffee this morning:

Really love how this Chevelle is sitting, slammed with the bigger/wider rallye style wheels and redline tires. and the restoration job on it was top level.

One of the best looking Falcons i've seen. Not too often you see a pro touring style Falcon

And here is our Daytona Coupe we just bought for those that wanted to see it. I'll get more later.
 
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So I was about really really close on making my STi push over 700whp.

Didn't want to mention anything until all was done, the setup is incredible. Unfortunately, and somewhat fortunately my Mother did not let me drop almost $30k on this,

Closed deck stage4 IAG +shortblock with IAG ARP 1/2" head studs , upgraded axles- Driveshaft 800 for 800whp, IAG stage V heads, AMS950Rkit on a FP Xona Rotor Turbo 95-67 .82 Tial Housing, IAG FMIC, ID 2,000cc injectors, 450 Walbro on a surge tank with a DW65c hardwired.

Short Block
IAG Stage 4+ Closed Deck
- IAG Spec 99.75 Forged Pistons Set with +2mm Long Rods
- IAG Comp-Series Tri-Beam 4340 Connecting Rods
- ACL Race Rod Bearing Set (4B8296HX-STD)
- ACL RACE MAIN BEARING SET #5 Trust (5M8309H-STD)
- FHI CRANKSHAFT 2.5L Heat-Treated
- IAG 1/2" ARP 2000 Head Stud Set
- ARP Case Bolt Kit
- JE Pro Seal Subaru EJ25/EJ257 100mm 0.039in Head Gasket (SB1001-039)

Heads
- Power Division Beehive Spring, Ti Retainer
- Manley Race Flow Intake Valves 37mm (+1mm)
- Manley Extreme Duty Exhaust Valves 33m (+1mm)
- Power Division S2 Cams 272/272
- Port And Polished by IAG

Motor Others
-Okada Plasma Coil Packs
-NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
-KS Tech 9.5mm Phenolic Spacers
-IAG CNC TGV Deletes
-Tomei Timing Belt Guide
-IAG Air Pump Deletes
-Gates Racing Timing Belt kit with Water Pump

Air Induction
-IAG Custom FMIC (setup for reverse intake manifold)
-IAG Cromoly Crash Bar
-IAG Custom Air Intake kit
-Cosworth Intake Manifold (reverse) (Powder Coated Peeka-Blue & Hydrodipped Center Portion)
-IAG Custom Bracket for Reverse Intake Manifold
-AEM AIT Sensor (speed density)
-Tial 50mm BOV
-AEM 5 Bar Map Sensor
-FP Xona Rotor Turbo 95-67 .82 Tial Housing
-Prosport Turbo Blanket

Fueling
-IAG Top Feed Fuel Rails and AN fittings
-Aeromotive -6 Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Cobb Flex Fuel and Sensor Kit
-Radium Surge Tank w/ Walbro 450 LPH Pump and Install Kit
-Fuel Lines upgraded to -8 from Surge tank to Motor
-Injector Dynamics 2000cc Injectors w/PNP Kit

Exhaust
-AMS 38mm EWG Uppipe (Ceramic Coated)
-AMS Rotated 2 Piece Downpipe (Ceramic Coated)
-Killer B 2-Bolt Headers (Ceramic Coated)

Oil System
-IAG V2 Competition Air Oil Separator (BLUE)
-Killer B Oil Pan
-Killer B Oil Pickup
-Killer B Oil Baffle
-Greddy Magnetic Drain Plug
-Killer B ½ NPT to 1/8 PT Plug
-Killer B Oil Cap Relocation Kit

Cooling
-Koyo Radiator
-Mishimoto Fan Shroud Kit
-Samco Radiator Black Hoses
-Killer B Coolant expansion tank

Brakes
-Alcon Big Brake Kit 6 Piston front 373mm 2 Piece Rotors

:frown:

Some of the stuff mentioned I already have it installed, but that would be the entire setup + an Exedy Triple Disc clutch
 
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Some clean pro-touring rides from Cars and Coffee this morning:

Really love how this Chevelle is sitting, slammed with the bigger/wider rallye style wheels and redline tires. and the restoration job on it was top level.








One of the best looking Falcons i've seen. Not too often you see a pro touring style Falcon











And here is our Daytona Coupe we just bought for those that wanted to see it. I'll get more later.


:pimp:
 
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