\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

That's the point that pro-buying heads can't understand. They're so caught up in wanting the outcome to own something that they can't understand that some people just want a new car every couple years without committing.

Exactly. Leasing is very popular with more expensive cars - Merc, BMW, Audi etc. Since the new generations often make the previous gen look outdated, plus with maintenance often covered it makes perfect sense to lease a C class or a 3. Not to mention most people assume you bought the car so the status is a big deal too.

likewise toyotas/hondas/nissans hold value very well, especially the hybrids, they don't depreciate as badly as mercs/bmw's do, and they're so reliable and cheap to maintain that buying and not leasing makes much more sense, the longevity of the vehicle is crazy. My '94 Toyota is still running smooth and it has 214k on it, 20 year old car I pay like $500 per year in maintenance, car is dumb reliable & cheap :lol:
 
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That's the point that pro-buying heads can't understand. They're so caught up in wanting the outcome to own something that they can't understand that some people just want a new car every couple years without committing.
Once I need a new car I can't ever see myself buying a car. I've had my current car 3 years and I'm bored with it. However I'd definitely buy a weekend/project car
 
Best. Decision. Ever.

400

is it me or does it look very similar to the cla? :lol:

mercedes-a-class-sedan1.jpg
 
Best. Decision. Ever.

400

saw this at the auto show, clean.

they had some higher version or something that made me think about copping one and im the guy who would never cop a mazda but it looks damn good and expensive.
 
can anybody chime in on the 99-2001 Audi A4?

looking at one tight now, black 2001 A4 Quattro,
5 speed.
Fully loaded
Clean Title
124xxx miles
Turbo timer, TT superchip
Short throw shifter
full exhaust

dude is asking $4,300, but I'd be looking to pay something like 38-4 TOPS.

Need to know a little more about these.

I'm assuming since it's German, parts will be expensive.
 
400

I've had this for a few years now ,just trying to keep it simple. I Used to have an 04' lancer ralliart . JJwatt I never had any issues with that car, I know a lot of people might think otherwise because it's a mitsu but I had that thing till about 100k and never had any problems with it. It was a fun little car and easy/cheap to maintain but I wanted awd and some more hp. Have u looked into the lancer ralliarts? Not the sexiest cars but they get pretty decent mpg and they have about 162 hp/tq. Nice alternative to say a civic, corolla or something ..btw dope pic of ur evo boosthog!
 
Haha...I'm guessing you guys are no strangers to EvoM :smile: My car is kinda gimpy at the moment. Leaking valves and blown piston ring, but am going to build it this year. It's an E85 car running a CBRD BBK Full for the evo nerds.
 
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Haha...I'm guessing you guys are no strangers to EvoM :smile: My car is kinda gimpy at the moment. Leaking valves and blown piston ring, but am going to build it this year. It's an E85 car running a CBRD BBK Full for the evo nerds.
Sick man!  Yea i'm on EvoM. Same user name. although i haven't really been going on there much lately, except when i posted my wheels for trade.
 
can anybody chime in on the 99-2001 Audi A4?

looking at one tight now, black 2001 A4 Quattro,
5 speed.
Fully loaded
Clean Title
124xxx miles
Turbo timer, TT superchip
Short throw shifter
full exhaust

dude is asking $4,300, but I'd be looking to pay something like 38-4 TOPS.

Need to know a little more about these.

I'm assuming since it's German, parts will be expensive.


What does it look like? I would try to get something stock or something you're sure has been taken care of.

If you are willing to travel to Sacramento, there are three nice ones: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4299706841.html, http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4337633252.html, and http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4336863734.html.

Mine:
YmDLITQ.jpg


And my S4:
RikbeIA.jpg
 
Can somebody explain wheel offsets?  A rep suggested a +35 offset on a 20x9 wheel.  How does the offset effect the stance?  Any pictures for comparison?
 
can anybody chime in on the 99-2001 Audi A4?

looking at one tight now, black 2001 A4 Quattro,
5 speed.
Fully loaded
Clean Title
124xxx miles
Turbo timer, TT superchip
Short throw shifter
full exhaust

dude is asking $4,300, but I'd be looking to pay something like 38-4 TOPS.

Need to know a little more about these.

I'm assuming since it's German, parts will be expensive.
My sister is in sales and had a 2000 she drove into the ground at 240k plus miles. She loved it. At that mileage for a 16 year old car that is not bad. I would make sure its checked out, no aftermarket crap, tint the windows and drive.
 
Can somebody explain wheel offsets?  A rep suggested a +35 offset on a 20x9 wheel.  How does the offset effect the stance?  Any pictures for comparison?

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches).

Basically the lower the offset number the closer to the fender you will be. So a 20x9 with 35 offset will be more "sunken in" (further from the fender) the wheel well than a 20x9 with a 25 offset (10mm closer to the fender).
The wider the wheel, the larger the lip of the wheel, or the deeper the concavity will be on a car.

Here is a comparison of a 20x9 and either a 20x10 or a 20x10.5
1000
 
is it me or does it look very similar to the cla? :lol:

mercedes-a-class-sedan1.jpg

It looks like one, drives like one, but didn't cost like one :lol:

saw this at the auto show, clean.

they had some higher version or something that made me think about copping one and im the guy who would never cop a mazda but it looks damn good and expensive.

Should have gotten it :lol: To me the higher end version had extras that I don't really care for. More accident avoidance type of stuff more than anything. Can't go wrong with the mid level though
 
Man I'm trying to avoid Civics.

I stay in northern NJ with Newark being 25 mins away and the GW right there.

Them ***** are stolen for sport.

:lol: :smh:
Man them car jackers in newark are ruthless, that's why i just ride the train and walk lol.
 
Just don't go too low on the offsets. You end up looking like an *** with your wheels sticking out of your fenders.
 
I gotta do maintanence on my 05 Evo 8 RS (Tires, complete fluid change, timing belt, ball joints, maybe bushings) but i really wanna buy a nice condition late model E36 M3.

If i sell my evo i think i might as well do the maintanence to open to more prospective buyers.


E85 converted, 340AWP/TQ with VERY minimal mods.
 
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E36 M3s are great cars. But keep in mind you're going from a new(ish) car to something at least 15 years old. Even with the lower mileage E36s, the rubber bushings and hoses begin to deteriorate after time. Its worth it though given how amazing they feel when driving. A lot of clean, low mileage E36 M3s have been popping up in the 15-20k range. From what car you're coming from I would look more at E46 M3s but that's just me.
 
Yah you can find decent shape e36 for 7500 ish. Friend sold his a while back with track suspension etc.

I think those cars are still expensive to maintain though.

Be mentally prepared for possibly spending 1500 to fix something like a rear main seal on a car that is only worth 7000.
 
E36 M3s are great cars. But keep in mind you're going from a new(ish) car to something at least 15 years old. Even with the lower mileage E36s, the rubber bushings and hoses begin to deteriorate after time. Its worth it though given how amazing they feel when driving. A lot of clean, low mileage E36 M3s have been popping up in the 15-20k range. From what car you're coming from I would look more at E46 M3s but that's just me.

i vote for the e46 m3 too :pimp:
 
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