Phillip Lim on His New Target Collaboration, His Love of Sweats, and More
For the better part of five years Phillip Lim resisted Target's proposal to collaborate on a collection and while an offer like that is something most young brands would pounce on immediately, Lim's initial resistance actually speaks volumes about his objective as a designer. The years in between then and now allowed Lim to sort through his own ideas and establish a signature aesthetic, one that looks forward but is firmly grounded in what guys actually want to wear. This considered outlook is imprinted all over the designer's Target collaboration, from the tailored stretch cotton suiting, to the tapered sweat pants, and those must-have $45 bluff seamed sneakers. Lim's goal was to take classic items, like those kicks, and "reduce it down without removing the poetry," so pieces like a leather biker jacket remain familiar but have been refit with modern proportions. We briefly chatted with the designer to find out how the lineup came together and why guys wearing 3.1 should be looking over their shoulders.
GQ: You've said that this collaboration with Target has been discussed for a while now. What was your initial apprehension about doing one?
Phillip Lim: Target is such a huge entity. It's a beast, right? And I wasn't ready to tame the beast. What was on my mind then was about what I was doing and building a language for the brand. They kept coming back every year and finally I was like, "okay, let's do it."
GQ: How long did it take you to design the collection?
Lim: It was literally the week after the women's show in February. It was a crazy schedule but I knew what I wanted to do already. It was about starting with what am I still interested in and what's still relevant, and then looking at what Target is about.
GQ: How did that give way to the final pieces? Some of the pieces, like the leather jacket, are very much in the DNA of your brand but others look new.
Lim: The leather jacket, for example: you might find one in Target, but you won't find one that fits like this. With these trainers it's the whole idea of reducing them down to not be silly like a clown. For guys it's about staples. I think it's about respecting guy codes but at the same time not putting guys to sleep.
GQ: As a designer is it exciting for you to be able to bring these codes and new proportions to such a mass market audience?
Lim: Yes. That was so important and I was so impressed with Target's reception of it. You think about mass retailers and they always throw glitter on everything because they have to stand out, right? But Target was like, "no, guys will wear this."
GQ: What would you say is the one item in the collection every guy should pick up once it goes on sale?
Lim: The Grab and Go pack. When you're in a hurry packing, it's the perfect fit t-shirt, boxer brief, and socks that match. It comes in black and gray and it's essential.
GQ: When you're at a Target, what is the one thing you always have to pick up?
Lim: I always buy sweats. One day I'm going to have a sweats set dinner party. And I always buy athletic socks.
GQ: This collection is going to open up your brand to such a wide audience. Is seeing guys on the street in your pieces something that makes you happy?
Lim: My reaction is that I become the fan. I'm like following them, seeing what they're wearing with it.
GQ: Got it, we'll tell guys to be looking over their shoulder.
Lim: No, I'm just happy we can address fifty percent of the population.