Official Mens Suits Thread ---- Post all Questions and Tips here...

[luckyluchiano]

can a Tailor put a vent in your jacket?

 

[rfx45]

Originally Posted by LuckyLuchiano

can a Tailor put a vent in your jacket?

You know what, I am not quite sure. I believe they need to make a fold on each side of the vent and some jacket might nto have that extra material.I'm sure it can be done but I am not sure if it can be done right.

 

[luckyluchiano]

Originally Posted by RFX45

Originally Posted by LuckyLuchiano

can a Tailor put a vent in your jacket?

You know what, I am not quite sure. I believe they need to make a fold on each side of the vent and some jacket might nto have that extra material. I'm sure it can be done but I am not sure if it can be done right.

yea I have a suit with no vent, but I ain't gonna take the risk of them "trying" to see if they can do one.

 

[airant23]

YO!

No offense, but paisley/fancy/overdramatic ties ARE NOT WHAT IS UP. Simple, striped/solid is what is in. I mean it's cool if paisley is your thing...but you just have to know that's not what is in. Tool oud and draws too much attention to your tie. Simple, clean, fitted. Please go by that.
No sir. What is "in", in regards to men's suits, is pretty much everything. The rule to live by period is not to make the mistake ofmaking your tie the focus of your ensemble. Regardless of the pattern, if you follow that rule you're in good standing. Classics such as paisley or novacheck are never "not what is up."

DF!!!

 

[vi3tsi06]

Originally Posted by Vince Dirty

Gianfranco Ferre....Copped for my prom in dark charcoal grey...im skinny as hell so it's great....

to go with this tie by armani

and shirt from
http://www.takumi-clothing.com/

thats my prom outfit along with these (Tod's)

Great combo of stuff and it is my first real suit. Expensive but will last me a while and no better investment than a great suit





that's ugly as hell.... sorry man those shoes gotta go

 

[datznasty]

Post some young black dudes pulling these suit looks off. I can't imagine myself at all looking good in clothes. Also some non 5'6 130lb frailbodymodels would give me a better idea as well. I'm 6'0 200 with long arms

 

[luckyluchiano]

Originally Posted by DatZNasty

Post some young black dudes pulling these suit looks off. I can't imagine myself at all looking good in clothes. Also some non 5'6 130lb frailbody models would give me a better idea as well. I'm 6'0 200 with long arms

You must have been the only black dude in your college or something. As long as you get your stuff tailored to your body you're good. The Slim lookingstuff isn't for everyone, but that doesn't mean you gotta rock 3xl Steve Harvey suits either.

 

[shabooyah1124]

Originally Posted by LuckyLuchiano

Another thing I was thinking about venturing into were Square bottom ties, but I haven't really seen em done much to get an idea of how to pull em off.

I got a question for most of y'all. I bought a suit from Nordstroms a while back and it still fits me fine, but I realized that the sleeves might be toolong and I want to add slits on the sides in the back. How much will that run me?

 

[minah86]

Originally Posted by AirAnt23

YO!

No offense, but paisley/fancy/overdramatic ties ARE NOT WHAT IS UP. Simple, striped/solid is what is in. I mean it's cool if paisley is your thing...but you just have to know that's not what is in. Tool oud and draws too much attention to your tie. Simple, clean, fitted. Please go by that.

No sir. What is "in", in regards to men's suits, is pretty much everything. The rule to live by period is not to make the mistake of making your tie the focus of your ensemble. Regardless of the pattern, if you follow that rule you're in good standing. Classics such as paisley or nova check are never "not what is up."

DF!!!

I agree. paisley is one of the most classic patterns that can never get old, as long as you know how and when to wear them.

 

[falcon4567]

Originally Posted by DatZNasty

Post some young black dudes pulling these suit looks off. I can't imagine myself at all looking good in clothes. Also some non 5'6 130lb frailbody models would give me a better idea as well. I'm 6'0 200 with long arms

 

[infamousod]

Originally Posted by LuckyLuchiano

Originally Posted by RFX45

Originally Posted by LuckyLuchiano

can a Tailor put a vent in your jacket?

You know what, I am not quite sure. I believe they need to make a fold on each side of the vent and some jacket might nto have that extra material. I'm sure it can be done but I am not sure if it can be done right.

yea I have a suit with no vent, but I ain't gonna take the risk of them "trying" to see if they can do one.

It's possible to do maybe a center vent (which is better than no vents) however there needs to be extra material. Where I work I've neveractually seen it done.

 

[luckyluchiano]

Originally Posted by Falcon4567

Originally Posted by DatZNasty

Post some young black dudes pulling these suit looks off. I can't imagine myself at all looking good in clothes. Also some non 5'6 130lb frailbody models would give me a better idea as well. I'm 6'0 200 with long arms

that first one is

And with the vent, I would need to provide the extra material or are you saying Extra material like it has to be oversized?

 

[kicktionair]

Graduation tips?

HS if it matters

 

[c0nev3rge]

go with a vest combo, suit ehh you'll be wearing a gown the whole time , if you dont wanna go with a vest http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/...4&ab=ln_men_cs2_dressshirts&parentPage=familywith some navy blue pants would look nice or just switch it up. But make sure it fits man none of the baggy isshh

 

[c0nev3rge]

btw it dosent have to be RL, you can make any shirt and tie combo look like a thousand bucks if you just know how to wear it. I'd throw in that tie therethough because i like it haha

 

[infamousod]

Originally Posted by fraij da 5 11

Theres been a lot of posts that relate to things like this lately and I remember the last one of these was pretty successful, people had a lot of good information to share and others had a lot of questions.

I personally have been looking for/buying new suits lately for a new job that i have that has allowed me to attend the Kentucky Derby and soon the Belmont Stakes.

I got 2 suits from Boscov's, which seemed to be a pretty good experience... they have some decent quality stuff for very good prices. I got a Kenneth Cole Reaction for $147.99 and a Billy London for $119.99... both good prices for starting off for nice looking suits.

Im still looking for at least 1 more suit for the $250-$400 range... obviously something nice and definitely tailored.

But I figured that many people are in the same boat as I am or at least in a similar situation.. or maybe they just want to get a new suit or know what they should be looking for in one.

I'll start the thread off with a little article i found on mensfashion.about.com


lets get some of the fashion heads in here to drop some knowledge

[h1]Men's Suits - 6 Things to Consider When Shopping for Men's Suits[/h1]
From Daniel Billett,
Your Guide to Men's Fashion / Grooming.
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!

Men's suits: An ill-fitting suit can be seen from miles away and has a damaging effect on your image. So getting the right fit in a suit and having it tailored is rather important, that is if you have any concern about how you might come across in an interview, to a client or to your peers. The first thing to do, if you haven't already, is get properly measured (which any reputable retailer can do for you). This includes: neck, shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist and inseam. Once you know your size you are free to hit the dressing rooms. And when you do go shopping for men's suits, keep these six things in mind:

Choosing a Fabric
Let's get one thing clear, unless you have a closet full of suits and want something different, worsted wools are your best bet for a suit.
These include gabardines or mid-weight corded wools. You will often find suits that say "Super 100" which are very popular these days--all this means is that the yarn has been twisted more often than the usual 60-80 twist wools. Either way they are considered mid-weight. And good fabric will spring back without wrinkling after it's squeezed. Just remember that worsted wools wear well and are typically good year-round depending on where you live.
The Fit of Your Trousers
Make sure that the waistline of your trousers is comfortable and that you can stick two fingers into the waist while you're wearing them. And as far as pleats are concerned, it's usually a personal preference. However, as a general rule, pleats are better for those with larger tummies and not a good idea for those who are thin. This is because a flat front trousers accentuate your tummy if you have one and pleats help cover it up. And conversely, pleats make a skinny guy look even skinnier, and not in a good way.

The Hem on Your Trouser
Nothing says sloppy more than a pile of fabric at your ankle. Your pants should reach your shoes and have a slight break. Cuffed or uncuffed is your choice, but keep in mind that cuffless makes you look taller if you happen to be a little shorter and cuffs looks better on someone with long legs. Cuffs also appeal to a more mature consumer.

The Length of Your Sleeves
Make sure your sleeve length is right on, otherwise you will look like you borrowed someone else's suit. If the sleeve covers your shirt cuff, it is too long. It should just reach the base of your thumb, revealing a half inch to an inch of your shirt cuff-very classy.

The Waist of the Jacket
The jacket should fit easily across your stomach. The traditional American cut suit with two buttons, which has been a mainstay for many years, is being replaced by suit jackets which are more fitted and have three and four buttons. However, the classic two-button style remains popular, and some two-button jackets offer a fresh twist with higher button placement similar to the three-button style and is often more flattering. Whether your preferred style is classic or modern, look for fitted waistlines that enhance the shape of your body. Getting a close fit at the waist is, do I dare say it?, a good thing (sorry Martha).

The General Fit of Your Suit
When it is all said and done, you should be able to stretch and bend easily in your suit. Make sure that you that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms out straight in front of you, and also try sitting in a chair and pretend you are working. You should always be comfortable.

I actually work in the industry and I'm privy to a lot of style tips that go beyond the rash generalizations of articles like this.

It's a decent article I would say but there are a few caveats:

- Super 100's and up is the way to go, but also keep in mind construction. Most suits less than $900 will be glued together or what's called fused. Afused garment looks great the day you buy it and the first day you wear it but then gets worse and worse. When you have it cleaned and ironed the gluewon't hold up very well and it'll never have that look again. Semi-canvas or full canvas will guarentee years of life and is definately a deal breaker.

- Pleats are somewhat out, flat front is the best right now. The one-pleat pant is coming back.

- Heavy set men need pleats is a complete myth. They just haven't found pants that fit right. In fact some look worse because the pleats start gettingpulled out. If you are a weird shape look for custom made.

- If you have pleats you must have cuffs, 1 3/4 inch is the absolute smallest cuff you should have. 2" cuff is the best and more if you're Italian. Iwear plain front pants with 2" or bigger cuffs.

- The amount of break your pants have on your shoes is a matter of preference. Some people never like showing sock, I love showing sock so I have almost nobreak.

- Rule of thumb: if you have a wide bottom on your pant then your pant legs should be longer with a lot of break. If your pants are slimmer/tapered then theyshould be higher up to avoid an ugly bunch up. The fashion is tapered pants, don't look like Pat Riley who was the best dressed man in the early 90'sand hasn't changed his look ever.

- Pretty much on point about sleeve length. Too long is not good on your shirt or jacket. Too short looks ridiculous. When your shirt sleeve is unbuttoned thecuff should reach to about your pinkie's knuckle before its first wash. It'll shrink and will settle perfectly about a half inch or less above yourpinkie's knuckle. If that's too confusing just ask a professional.

- A tapered, fitted jacket is always best. If you're lean and in good shape look for a drop 7 (means your coatwaist width is 7 inches thinner than yourshoulder's width).

- Like it says you should be comfortable in your suit, but don't go crazy whining about every little restriction. It is a suit jacket not a sweatsuit,you're not exercising in it. Even custom made suits are a *little* restricting because its a freaking suit. That's more of a personal thing becauseI'm very picky. Just make sure you are comfortable.

- 2 button was the fashion as it said, then 3 button came about and is still strong. Now the style is going back somewhat to 2 button, BUT a high two button.So the top button should be I don't know? nipple height? It shouldn't be down by your stomach.



IMPORTANT IMPORTANT IMPORTANT

CLARIFICATION OF BUTTONING YOUR JACKET:

I would never wear a 4 button suit so don't ask.

2 Button suit: button the top button if you like, NEVER button the bottom button

3 Button suit: button the middle, or button the middle and top. NEVER button the bottom and while some would argue its "American style" I would NEVERbutton just the top button. It reminds me of LA mexican gangsters button the top button of plaid shirts. If you are not sure just button the top two.


SHOULDER PADS!!!

We're not in the 80s and you're not a linebacker. Get as small a shoulder pad as you can, if any at all. I love wearing no shoulder pad. Its Neopolitan(from Naples, Italy) style, and its most comfortable and looks really good. The days of giant shoulder pads are gone.





PM me if you have specific questions, I work with custom and off the rack suits in the 1000-5000+ range. I'll try to answer as many questions on thisthread as I can.

 

[luckyluchiano]

What are you guys thoughts on pinstripes.

 

[infamousod]

pinstripes are fine. they are more difficult to match and you can't wear that suit as often because people will remember it. So it would be my 4th or 5thsuit not my 1st or 2nd suit.


I'm not 100% sure about the material for the vent but you definately wouldnt have to *provide* it. The problem is that the back of the jacket is a certainlength. When you have vents the vents don't just sit side by side (its not just cutting a slit), one side overlaps the other a little. So that would meanthe back of the jacket is longer by that little bit. I know its been done before but I'm not sure of the requirements.

 

[infamousod]

Originally Posted by Falcon4567

Originally Posted by DatZNasty

Post some young black dudes pulling these suit looks off. I can't imagine myself at all looking good in clothes. Also some non 5'6 130lb frailbody models would give me a better idea as well. I'm 6'0 200 with long arms

First one is the most up to date european fashion right now. Notice the very tapered fit, no shoulder pad, a high two button with a pocket square. Verynice. The second one has a classic, much older style that has its purpose I suppose, notice wider pant leg, longer pant leg. 3rd one you can tell is from about2 years ago give or take because of the giant collar on the shirt. Last one is also very european cut, notice the thick knot on the tie which is fading backout but still good, and the spread on the collar, like the first one.

 

[luckyluchiano]

Originally Posted by infamousod

pinstripes are fine. they are more difficult to match and you can't wear that suit as often because people will remember it. So it would be my 4th or 5th suit not my 1st or 2nd suit.


I'm not 100% sure about the material for the vent but you definately wouldnt have to *provide* it. The problem is that the back of the jacket is a certain length. When you have vents the vents don't just sit side by side (its not just cutting a slit), one side overlaps the other a little. So that would mean the back of the jacket is longer by that little bit. I know its been done before but I'm not sure of the requirements.

Yea you are right about people remembering Pinstripes, I have 2 pinstripe suits but they are subtle though not like Navy and white stripes or something. Imight cop another suit later this summer.I've seen alot of people say Black Suits aren't that great for business settings

 

[rfx45]

Super 100's and up is the way to go, but also keep in mind construction. Most suits less than $900 will be glued together or what's called fused. A fused garment looks great the day you buy it and the first day you wear it but then gets worse and worse. When you have it cleaned and ironed the glue won't hold up very well and it'll never have that look again. Semi-canvas or full canvas will guarentee years of life and is definately a deal breaker.

While I agree that fused suits aren't the best but I believe it is also best to include that a fused suit that will be worn the most 4-5 times a yearshould be good enough to last years. I am all for quality when it comes to suits and dress shoes and believe it is better to spend more on a great one thanspend less on a 5 mediocre suits, however, to most people here, a $400-$600 fused suits are or should be good enough. I just thought I would add that so thatnot everyone is going to think that any suits less than $900 isn't any good. I just want to encourage wearing sutis first.

- 2 button was the fashion as it said, then 3 button came about and is still strong. Now the style is going back somewhat to 2 button, BUT a high two button. So the top button should be I don't know? nipple height? It shouldn't be down by your stomach.

The top button about nipple height? I believe that is too high, even for a 3-button suit. I wouldn't say the top button should be by the belly button butabout an inch or two below the nipple height is ideal. A 2-button suit with the top button placed by a nipple height would look real weird and akward.

 

[alielaydi]

someone recommend a good inexpensive suit for everwight people, im 6'1'' and 250 lbs, and if age has anything to do with it 16, help me out please,i have one but the pants i have with it make my hips look huige

 

[derrtay]

I'm 5'5-5'6
140 lbs
semi-short arms
and like a stocky/ built build

Can anyone recommend where i can get a suit?

I'm having so much trouble finding a suit cause everywhere i go, suits are just too big(mainly the sleeves)


I've tried banana republic and Calvin Klein

Hugo boss had one suit, but i can't afford the price.

so tips?

anythings appreciated.

 

[infamousod]

true, inch lower is good. I never really used that as a reference point =P

and good advice about the fused suit. it really is the industry standard and will last a long time if treated well. But its just a shame how people go toNeiman's and buy a 1500$ name brand suit and its fused. The point I was trying to make, and you reinforced, is that if you are buying a suit to last 10years then don't get fused. If its for the occasional event, fused is fine.




Ah I'd say go to Nordstroms and see what they've got. There might be some good local shops where you live that aren't corporate.

 

[ddot7]

Originally Posted by RFX45

It's good to hear you guys are getting fitted suits but to be honest, I am surprised you guys are finding fitted Hugo Boss suits. I always find them real boxy and somewhat baggy. I don't want to put you guys down though and if it fits well, then congrats.

I just came back to this...Hugo Boss red label. Far from "boxy". It was that or Z by Zegna and I didn't feel like spending $1000+.